Jerez is an entrancing Spanish city in its own right. Amazing tapas, Andalusian horses, flamenco. And as the Capital of Sherry, it offers a unique wine culture to explore and fall in love with. Richard Oakley, on a random visit, did. It has inspired his new online venture, Sherry Amor, providing an insider’s introduction through a range of mixed sherry cases.
The first three on sale showcase very different producers – venerable Valdespino (1430), specialists in single vineyard and aged sherries; Jerez bastions Williams and Humbert (founded by Englishmen in 1877) and Sanchez Romate (family-owned since 1781) offering dry styles; and Barbadillo.
The latter bodega is steeped in history, too. Dating back to 1821, it is now run by the seventh generation of the family in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, 25km north west of Jerez. Sanlúcar is the epicentre of Manzanilla, the bone dry sherry whose saline finish is attributed to the vineyards’ position on the Guadalquivir estuary, from where Columbus and Magellan once set sail.
The company’s Solear is Spain’s best-selling Manzanilla and is included in Sherry Amor’s mixed case of six Barbadillo half bottles (37.5 cl) that also features two of their aged dry sherries, a medium-sweet Oloroso, sweet Moscatel… and a Manzanilla Pasada En Rama de la Pastora. The extra ageing on a ‘pasada’ wine adds complexity and body. ‘En Rama’ means bottling straight from the cask with no fining or filtration.
Just answer this simple question: Which town is the centre of Manzanilla sherry production?
Email your answer (with name and postal address) to neil@neilsowerby.co.uk by midnight on December 31. Winner will be notified the following week.
What makes sherry so special? I asked Richard Oakley…
It’s nearly Christmas. Time to dust off the Bristol Cream at the back of the drinks cabinet. Doesn’t sherry still suffer from an image problem? The drink of an elderly demographic? Or is that changing?
I don’t think sherry has an image problem. More and more people are discovering the range of styles that are available and loving them. They’re unique wines, full of complexity and flavour, great value and practical, too – they keep very well once opened. Oh, and I have nothing against Harvey’s Bristol Cream!
There are so many different sherry styles, from bone-dry to lusciously sweet. You are focusing on the drier ones. Why is that?
I’m offering more dry styles of sherry as I generally find them more interesting to drink, and hope other people do, too. Most of the six-bottle mixed cases I’m offering have maybe one sweet and five dry styles. In addition, I think the dry styles are perhaps less well-known, so there is more to discover.
I think most folk know fino as a dry aperitif, but explain the difference between amontillado, oloroso and palo cortado. So drinkers know what to expect.
All three are all made from the same grape, Palomino Fino, but one main difference is in the amount of oxygen they are exposed to during development. Amontillado is initially aged under a thick layer of yeast, known as flor, whereas Oloroso is aged in full contact with oxygen. This results in a more nutty, oaky and aromatic flavour for Amontillado and a more toasty, balsamic and dried fruit flavour for Oloroso. Palo Cortado is produced when the flor goes a bit rogue, doesn’t develop fully and is a flavour combination of the two, often with a very dry, saline character.
Half of the Valdespino case is devoted to wines with some age on them. Why are they worth the premium? Is sherry as a whole good value?
Some, but not many, unfortified wines are drinkable when 20 or 30 years old. If you compare sherry with the prices of an aged red or white wine, sherry is incredible value. You’re getting a ton of complexity and flavour for your money in a 20 or 30-year-old sherry! I’m planning to add more aged sherry products to the Sherry Amor list in 2025.
Not just for sipping on their own, how food-friendly are sherries? What are the best matches?
Dry sherries are incredibly savoury and therefore versatile food wines. Fino and Manzanilla are the same alcoholic strength as some unfortified white wines, so think seafood. I like to enjoy Amontillado with cured meats, especially Iberico jamon, as there’s a nuttiness to both. Oloroso is great with a roast chicken; sometimes I add a splash to the roasting pan. Palo Cortado can stand up to some highly-spiced Asian dishes, especially classic home-cooked Indian dishes such as keema peas. On the dessert front, Pedro Ximenez with vanilla ice cream and raisins is a classic. Aged sherry wines also make for a great aperitif or digestif. But nobody should feel obliged to follow any rules.
Setting up Sherry Amor demonstrates your passion for this classic tipple in a world of so many wine choices. Sum up what makes sherry so special?
Sherry is a unique style of drink, in terms of production and flavour, from a very specific geographical area. Its production and consumption is very closely intertwined with Britain, having been mentioned by Chaucer, Shakespeare and Dickens. I think you can taste some of that history when you drink the wines.
https://i0.wp.com/www.neilsowerby.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/12/True-Barbadillo.jpg?fit=1964%2C1324&ssl=113241964Neil Sowerbyhttps://www.neilsowerby.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/NS-typemark-v1c.pngNeil Sowerby2024-12-17 11:50:572024-12-17 11:51:14Win a fabulous six-bottle case of sherry to kick-start 2025
I make no apology for kicking off my books of 2024 round-up with the reissue of a foodie classic first published in 1950 – a time when we weren’t deluged with cookbooks from every corner of the globe and olive oil and garlic weren’t a staple of our national diet. Alongside it a history of that same English food, whose riches have rarely been given their just recognition…
A Book of Mediterranean Food by Elizabeth David (Grub Street, £14.99 reissue) and The English Table by Jill Norman (Reaktion, £17.95)
For nigh on 30 years my most cherished foodie keepsake was a browning programme from Elizabeth David’s memorial service on September 10, 1992. The great and the good of the food world were in attendance inside St Martin-in-the-Fields. Plus me taking a break from the very different world of Robert Maxwell’s Daily Mirror to honour the great cookery writer, credited with introducing grey Post-War Britain to the sun-dowsed delights of Mediterranean and French cuisine.
Still today a standard-bearer for her values, Jeremy Lee was also in attendance, as a young chef. When he came up to Manchester to guest at Bistrotheque in Ducie Street Warehouse the dinner’s theme? Why, Elizabeth David as Muse! Alas, I took that precious memento to show Jeremy and somewhere on the way home I mislaid it.
A hardback version of her debut, A Book of Mediterranean Food, has not been available for decades (my dog-eared Penguin paperback is from 1975), but facsimile specialists Grub Street have remedied that and, with its original John Minton illustrations, this reissue would make a lovely Christmas present for a new generation.
Just a little taster from it, on Greek meze: “Your feet almost in the Aegean as you drink your ouzou; boys with baskets of little clams or kidonia (sea quince) pass up and down the beach and open them for you at your table; or the waiter will bring you large trays of olives, dishes of atherinous (tiny fried fish like our whitebait), small pieces of grilled octopus…”
Remember this was a pre-package holiday era when such travel was generally the preserve of an elite. She feels the need to explain meze as similar to hors d’oeuvre.
At that distant memorial service, Jill Norman, editor of both Ms David and Jane Grigson, gave an oration. She quoted from the author’s anthology, An Omelette and a Glass of Wine: “Came 1846 the year that Mr Alfred Bird brought forth custard powder, and Mr Bird’s brainchild grew and grew until all the land was covered with custard made with custard powder, and the trifle had become custard’s favourite resting place.”
Jill Norman’s new bookElizabeth David – legend
It is proof that in her later years Elizabeth David (wryly) researched our own native food culture and Jill Norman has followed in her footsteps with some distinction. The English Table is her own contribution to British food history. It’s a crowded field, mind, going back to the days of Dorothy Hartley and Florence White and, more recently, Pen Vogler and Diane Purkiss… plus Manchester-based Dr Neil Buttery, who conducted a fascinating recent interview with Jill on his British Food History podcast.
Now 84, she has taken on a big task to compress a couple of millennia’s worth of food-related social history into some 250 pages. She is ferociously well-read but recognises that in earlier times printed recipes were rarely representative of what most folk ate. In her final chapter she briefly addresses contemporary issues of ultra-processed foods and the need for biodiversity (insect-based anyone?).
A swell of local pride for me when she promotes Incredible Edible, the hands-on community growing movement that started in my home town of Todmorden 15 years ago. Back to basics is a good mantra to have.
‘Diana Henry’s debut’ reissuedA vintage taste of the sun
Crazy Water, Pickled Lemons by Diana Henry (Octopus, £26) and Dinner by Meera Sodha (Penguin Fig Tree, £27) xx
Another welcome reissue, this time from the 21st century. Diana Henry lacks the high profile of a Nigella or a Jamie but through nine books and a her Daily Telegraph column has been quietly influential. Crazy Water was her 2002 debut, where she acknowledges the influence of Claudia Roden (another Jill Norman signing) in her own incursions into Middle Eastern and Mediterranean flavours. She is rightly fascinated by evocative names; ‘crazy water’ is an Italian dish of sea bass poached in a salty, garlicky broth by the fishermen of the Amalfi coast. Pungent flavours in the recipes are matched by the piquancy of her traveller’s tales. Ms David would surely have approved.
Meera Sodha’s secret maladyAnd the book that came out of it
Meerha Sodha is familiar from her own weekly column in The Guardian’s Food supplement – the New Vegan. Her first two award-winning books sprang from her family’s diaspora – they fled from Uganda to less exotic Lincolnshire, where she was born and learned to cook Indian at her mother’s side.
The award-winning Mother India and Fresh India are among the most thumbed through, stained volumes on my kitchen shelves, The fourth, Dinner, continues the plant-based trajectory of follow-up East, offering 120 user-friendly recipes celebrating ‘the most important meal of the day”. That gives a clue to the once hidden, personal calamity at the book’s heart. To quote her chilling Dinner introduction: “A couple of years ago, I lost my love for food. I didn’t want to shop. I didn’t want to cook. I ate for necessity, not pleasure.”
Well, all of us food obsessives have had these days? No, this was true depression,, a can’t het out of bed breakdown – payback time for her over-zealous rise as a food writer. Heart-warming is the way she fought back finally when, realising her husband was himself cracking up after supporting her, she cooked a dinner that brought the family together. This book is a record of how each evening she rediscovered cooking for pleasure. The pleasure is now ours. This is genuine comfort food to batten down the hatches with against a hostile, demanding world.
An inspired Thai follow-upThe much-travelled Austin Bush
The Food of Southern Thailand by Austin Bush (Norton, £35) andThe Book of Pintxos by Marti Buckley (Artisan, £30)
Two very different writers who have settled in a distant country and charted its cuisine in minute but vital detail. Both happen to be American – Bush from Oregon, Buckley from Alabama. Bush has contributed hyperactively to Lonely Planet and rival guides to South Eastern Asia, but until this year his magnum opus was The Food of Northern Thailand (2018). Based in that country and a fluent Thai speaker, he has now followed it up with The Food of Southern Thailand, spotlighting a cuisine more familiar to Western holidaymakers on the surface, but Bush’s expeditions carry him far beyond Phuket resorts’ green curries ands pad thais. It is a visual revelation, too. His photography skills capture the vividness of diverse dishes such as Pork Braised with Soy Sauce, Pepper and Brown Sugar; a Rice Salad with Budu Dressing; a Spicy Dip of Smoked Shrimp; and Simmered Black Sticky Rice with Taro and Jackfruit. Chinese, Malay and Muslim cuisines come together in one cultural melting pot.
Marti BuckleyHer definitive pintxos guide
Marti Buckley has been based in Donastia (local name for San Sebastián) for over a decade and I used her debut food volume, Basque Country as a guidebook on a walking tour of that gastronomically rich region. Pintxos dives even deeper via the Basques’ small plate answer to tapas. Rich social history sits on the counter alongside some alluring recipes; I’m taking this one with me on my next trip. Not that I’ll be ordering my pdet phobia, Russian salad. Sorry, Marti.
Loch Fyne and its ruined castle
Between Two Waters by Pam Brunton (Canongate, £20) and Ultra-processed People by Chris van Tulleken Penguin, £10.99pb)
The main image for this article is the view across Loch Fyne from Inver to the ruins of Old Castle Lachlan. It’s lifted from this unique restaurant’s Facebook page. It’s always difficult to illustrate a book review article beyond a parade of covers. On the Inver site alongside a delectable food shot I was struck by this quote from chef patron Pam Brunton:
“The fish and the artichokes grew up a few miles from the restaurant. The sauce –made from the smoked bones of the fish and seaweed from nearby waters – is spiked with exotica from landscapes further away: verbena berries and fragrant bergamot juice, lifting the mellow autumnal umami. The crispy artichoke skins rustle like leaves in cold sunshine. Hardly post anything about food anymore – every time I come on here I’m consumed myself by thoughts of war and political collapse.”
Can’t imagine Nigella Lawson coming out with that, but then she would never have published Between Two Waters. It’s both a memoir of how Pam and her partner created their remote restaurant a decade ago, challenging punters’ expectations and not compromising on their ideals, and a rallying cry, tirade in parts, against how ‘Big Food’ has damaged the way we farm and cook and eat, severed our connection with nature.
A former philosophy student, she name-checks Descartes and Locke along the way as she lays into salmon farming, the grouse shooting industry and much, much more. She’s proud about buying organic and local, and Inver’s Michelin Green Star for prioritising sustainability. Sounds preachy? No it’s one of the most timely and important food books of recent years, tender and down to earth to when she explores her family roots in Dundee, rhapsodical about the staples of Scottish peasant cuisine. Just don’t get her started on the Highland Clearances.
Medic turned author Chris van Tulleken (above) took his crusade against ultra-processed foods and the damage they do onto BBC 2 the other night.
“This was explained to me by a scientist who works in the food industry,” reported Van Tulleken. “I said ‘but if I’m making a chocolate brownie at home, surely it is basically the same as one I buy in the shop?’ And he explained there are two really important differences. Firstly, the shop-bought one will use much more fat, salt and sugar.”
“The second difference is the shop-bought one will use additives which we don’t at home – these are ingredients that aren’t available to us – different fats and sweeteners, emulsifiers, stabilisers, colourings and flavourings.”
Such products are geared to engaging your appetites commercially, while neglecting your health. Not that the the oafish Rod Little, reviewing it in The Sunday Times, was convinced. Conspiracy theories he hinted at. The food industry is obviously keen to downplay what academic research compiled by Dr Chris has indicated. It scared the life out of me. Just buy the book and you may be too.
Jill Norman’s n
One Thousand Vines: A New Way to Understand Wine by Pascaline Lepeltier (Mitchell Beazley, £45) and Perry: A Drinker’s Guide by Adam Wells (CAMRA, £17.99pb)
I first encountered Pascaline Lepeltier when she wrote a foreword for (and contributed greatly to) Alice Feiring’s groundbreakingThe Dirty Guide to Wine in 2017, the ultimate terroiriste manifesto. Now Anjou-born, Chenin championing master sommelier Pascal has produced her own erudite overview, challenging pre-conceived ideas. US-based Pascaline also had a background in philosophy and her book ranges across botany, ecology, geology, how perception works in judging wines, the language of wine. It’s a unique work of synthesis, but never dry. Or should that be sec?
Earlier in the year I had the pleasure of interviewing Adam Wells about apple cider’s often neglected country cousin. The mission of Perry is to change all that. I described it as “a hugely evocative beacon of hope that manages to be more celebration than elegy. It’s a wonderful, revelatory read.” It has also added to my drinks bill as I’ve striven to fill the gaps in my knowledge. A trip to the orchards of Herefordshire was particularly fruitful. Do read about my adventures and check out the thoughts of Adam. Last word with him: “Great perry takes consummate care and attention. Which is all the more reason to celebrate the remarkable fact that it even exists.”
The Brandenburg GateBorder guards on the alert
Vertigo by Harald Jähner (WH Allen, £25) and Borderlines by Lewis Bastion (Hodder Press, £25)
The history of 20th century Europe continues to fascinate me. Aftermath was Harald Jähner’s eye-opening account of ‘Life in the Fall-out from the Second World War’, where he retraced a decade of ruins and restoration in his native Germany. More ambitiously, with Vertigo, he tackles the rise and fall of the Weimar Republic between the debacle of the Great War and the rise of Hitler. It’s more than just Cabaret decadence; a wealth of research reveals a society rich in innovation but wracked by internecine strife. The redrawing of borders after 1918 contributed to major tensions across Europe. In his quirky but sobering travelogue fellow political historian Lewis Bastion journeys to 29 key European borders to question what national/racial identity is all about it. Historical, it couldn’t feel more topical.
The Heart in Winter by Kevin Barry (Canongate, £16.99) and Tell Me Everything by Elizabeth Strout (Viking £16.99)
Colm Tóibín now ranks among the Irish literary greats and Long Island, his sequel to Brooklyn, was ‘eagerly anticipated’ in this household, but disappointed us both. Neither of us either can see what the fuss is about Sally Rooney, so Intermezzo was never likely to make my stocking. Step forward Sligo’s ever-surprising Kevin Barry and his wild western tale of lovers on the run in 1890s Montana. Opium-raddled wastrel Tom Rourke and mail order bride with a past Polly Gillespie high-tail it out of a mining town with a saddle pack full of dollars and a price on their head. Plot and language are as leftfield lyrical and inventive as ever. I love the pure Barry blarney of “Tom Rourke salted the eggs unambiguously”.
Since her 1998 debut novel Amy and Isabelle Elizabeth Strout has ploughed a very different literary furrow exploring the separate but eventually interlinking lives of two protagonists, Olive Kitteridge and Lucy Barton, one a cantankerous schoolmarm, the other a New York based writer, scarred by a poverty-stricken childhood in Illinois. Their parallel lives, and all involved with them, interlock finally in small town Maine. Strout mines a rare richness out of theconnections. Classic.
https://i0.wp.com/www.neilsowerby.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/12/fish-market.jpeg?fit=800%2C600&ssl=1600800Neil Sowerbyhttps://www.neilsowerby.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/NS-typemark-v1c.pngNeil Sowerby2024-12-09 21:33:102024-12-10 07:55:24Random reads – my recommended books of 2024 (and a reminiscence)
It’s beginning to feel a lot ike Christmas, Bring on the twinkly lights and the cocktails. Fun as well as food is part of the festive feast…
‘Parallel universes’ spring to mind. The restaurant and chef of the year shortlists for the recent This Is Manchester Awards had only a single nomination in common with similar categories in the Manchester Food and Drink Awards, whose results will be announced in January.
That was Skof with its profile hard to ignore. At the helm Tom Barnes, who ran the 3 Michelin starred L’Enclume for Simon Rogan. Yet even this seems an afterthought on a list majoring in fancy venues. Take your pick of the other restaurants from 20 Stories, Australasia, EastZeast, Fazenda, Fenix, MAYA, MUSU, Ribeye, San Carlo Alderley Edge, The Ivy Spinningfields.
Skof can’t be accused of such flash, rehashing that old bare brick/post-industrial trope. Another recent incomer Blacklock the chops specialist follows that interior template too as they bid to ‘fit into’ Mancunia.
A piece of Mykonos in ManchesterBeware Greeks bearing chocs
The Manc Mykonos – Fenix rising
The boot, spangly, on the other foot, step forward Fenix as ‘Leading Restaurant (Formal)’. Yes formal can include a shimmeringly glam take on some Mykonos windmills of the mind, featuring curvy, sea cave surfaces, an ‘olive tree’ and lighting that glows like an Aegean sunset in the bar, while the upstairs restaurant boasts “ash-toned driftwood dining chairs paired with decadent marble tables and refined tableware.”
Still I don’t have insurmountable issues with that choice. Across three visits I have had some outstandingly good refined Greek food. And the cocktail offering is playfully mythic. I’d recommend Heracles’ Eighth Trial.
It also shared (strangely since it opened last November) the ‘Outstanding Debut of the Year’ award with Sexy Fish, which I’ve visited twice for cocktail and fine wine related dinners. Yes, that fantasy on the former Armani site is all about Instagrammable piscine pzazz. but I didn’t feel a fish out of water. It was fun with some fine Japanese-inspired food, even if it lags behind the menu at nearby three AA rosette MUSU (or KAJI as it has morphed into, still lavishly glam, too, even when promoting fire-based cooking as one element,
Still this is a shark eat shark world in the tussle for the glitzy dollar. Leaving aside Sexy Fish’s relentless stablemate The Ivy, the golden touch, homegrown at that, seems currently to belong to the Jones Brothers.Trading as the Permanently Unique Group, Adam and Drew have already successfully extended their upmarket Chinese brand Tattu to London and plans are advanced for a Fenix and a Louis to follow.
Osso buco at FenixBroken down tart at Fenix
Elevated veal shank and broken down tarts
Ah, Louis. Maybe it was the crooning or the presence of celebs I couldn’t recognise (good luck with the Jungle, Colleen) but only the rip tide of Champagne buoyed me through the launch party in Spinningfields. A return visit to road-test the Italian-American menu has won me over big time. It was a comped meal with the inclusion of one of my favourite Chiantis, but such largesse would never subvert my critical faculties.
The osso buco alla milanese was especially magnifico. This rich, braised on-the bone veal shank dish with saffron risotto was a favourite of Frank Sinatra’s. So it’s perfect for Manchester’s own homage to a colourful New York past where guys dined dolls after Manhattans on the rocks. Such affectations may grate with some folk but when paired with spot-on service go with the flow.
Slow-cooked shank, pulled lamb this time, shows up in a Fenix dish that has survived the recent menu change. A parsnip bechamel, truffles and mushrooms are baked with it tarte tatin style in delicate pastry. It is served on crockery appropriate to its name, Broken Down Tart, a playful nod to the Greek tradition of plate smashing. I preferred it to the inevitable plate of wagyu.
Mythical boat up in lights at FenixOctopus Oasis at Sexy Fish
Let’s get lit up for Christmas… and the Octopus Oasis
Fenix also upholds another swanky tradition by draping its facade in a myriad seasonal lights. Celeb haunt Rosso back in the day exhausted considerable wattage in the same way and its successor up in Spring Gardens, Cibo, offers a more muted version. Neither can provide a back storey to match Fenix’s. Their lights are “inspired by the story of Karavari – a Greek custom where children carried illuminated boats while singing carols to bless the sailors of the Aegean seas”.
Meanwhile, back at Sexy Fish, where the decor is an entire Aegean Sea in its own right (check out the Octopus Oasis, next to the main bar).I do recommend a generous wine and matching food event in the Tropical Reef Private Dining Room that should be a regular fixture in the New Year. It’s called ‘Wine and Waves’, the latter their name for the those Japanese-influenced small plates.
Some seriously goo/d wines featured in the W&W debut – Krug Champagne, Leflaive Burgundy and and a glorious Alsace Riesling from Rolly Gassman, presented by knowledgeable head sommelier Davide Rinaldi.
If that’s not your £125 a head bag, book in for Sexy Fishmas: “Immerse yourself in a sparkling holiday wonderland with a limited-edition omakase menu and festive cocktails, surrounded by thousands of golden fish baubles for a truly unforgettable Christmas experience.”
Stunning Japanese food at KAJIMaya’s overwhelming bar in the darkness
MUSU is now KAJI and Moffat is at MAYA
A real fish, in the shape of a giant bluefin tuna being butchered, was one of the unlikeliest restaurant attractions in 2024 Manchester (followed by a meal) and we may not see such sell-out session again as the John Dalton Street venue reinvents itself as the Musu Collection. Sushi/sashimi led omakase will return inn 2025 along with a basement fined dining showcase for new chef Steve Smith. For the moment he’s leading fire-based dining experienceKAJI in the main dining room, which has re-jigged its giant screen-led decor without shedding the glitz. A relaunch meal showed no sign of slipping standards.
Smith made his name helming Ribble Valley gastropub. Interesting to see how it goes. Ditto with Shaun Moffat, whose very British approach and technical skills at the Edinburgh Castle gastropub in Ancoats won him Chef of the Year in the 2023 MFDF Awards. He’s now charged with turning around the kitchen at MAYA.
When I reviewed the place under previous chef Gabe Lea I was disturbed by an interior so penumbral I couldn’t read the menu. Little has changed it appears, reading a review of the new regime by the brilliant Olivia Potts for Manchester Confidential…
“The enormous cocktail bar at the centre of the room is beautiful, all gold and glass and plush stools, but it’s also dominating and it leaves the dining room feeling cramped. Diners are squeezed in closely and I almost knock over the wine glasses on our table when I sidle in, which I feel very stupid about – until the table next to us does exactly the same thing when they sit down. It does rather feel like eating a sit-down, three course dinner in a cocktail bar, rather than a dining room.”
Burlesque is central to MAYA vibeThat wild boar Barnsley chop
Baby Daisy or Barnsley Chop – take your pick
I introduced Olivia to Shaun’s food back at The Edinburgh Castle and I too am a huge fan, in particular of his immaculate sourcing. How all this switch will pan out, it will be interesting to see, at an entertainment destination currently promoting (get your glad rags on for December 13) “Internationally renowned Burlesque artist, Baby Daisy, performing a brand new show created exclusively for MAYA. Playfully called MAYAnage et trois, guests can expect an evening of glamour, sensuality and dazzling allure.”
But will there be a Wild Boar Barnsley Chop? That was the Moffat EC dish that convinced me of his exceptional talent, honed by running East London kitchens such as Manteca. Funny old world. One floor of MAYA, inside a listed building, does that distressed brick/post-industrial schtick.
Cast your MFDF Awards votes online now
As a long-serving judge I might biased but these eight nominations for Restaurant of the Year are where the food does the talking:
Adam Reid At The French, Another Hand, Higher Ground, Mana, Restaurant Örme (Urmston), The Pearl (Prestwich), Skof, Where the Light Gets In.
The closing date for votes is midnight on the 10th January 2025. Vote for your winner in all 17 categories here.
https://i0.wp.com/www.neilsowerby.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/12/Coxcktail-main.jpg?fit=640%2C480&ssl=1480640Neil Sowerbyhttps://www.neilsowerby.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/NS-typemark-v1c.pngNeil Sowerby2024-12-05 22:20:182024-12-10 09:34:27Instagram glam and serious grub are not odd bedfellows. Discuss!
Pilgrimages are not uncommon in the Dordogne. The region is on a main Camino de Santiago route and has boasted its own essential holy stop-off for 1,000 years, Rocamadour. My quest was of a more earthly nature – to discover if French food really is a shadow of its former self. Rivals Spain and Scandinavia, with their own different approaches, have stolen much of its culinary thunder in recent years, while Italian produce fills everyone’s larders.
Surely the Dordogne, bastion of regional tradition, built on foundations of foie gras, confit and every speciality you can squeeze out of a walnut, would uphold the reputation of La Belle France (even if for a substantial period of its history it was ruled by England)?
It certainly has sublime terroir on its side, yet as it turned out the most interesting meal of the trip was served in a dull street in Brive-la-Gaillarde – what counts as a big city in this agricultural region, its airportthe gateway to places more immediately touristique. We flew in from Stansted with Ryanair.
The historic Maison FabriLocal champion Adrien Castagné’
Martel’s Lionhearted legacy
Half an hour’s drive south, this is a harmonious melange of pale stone and red tiles, restaurants and cafes clustering around the rustically timbered 18th century market halle. Facing it is our introduction to the local cuisine, a bistro called Le Petit Moulin.
Chef/patron Adrien Castagné’s mission is to celebrate local products. Even the wine we taste is from his own family vineyard – an organic Cahors. It’s softened by Merlot but is mostly Malbec, a reminder the grape existed long before Argentina monopolised it. Of course, for starters I had to order a tranche of the family foie gras and it was sensationally creamy.
Across the cobbled square sits the turreted Maison Fabri, where in 1183 Henry Curtmantle, estranged elder son of Henry II, perished of a fever, thus speeding Richard The Lionheart to the throne of England and the rest is history, as they say. Hard to credit mellow Martel with such a turbulent past but that’s the reason the Dordogne features so many castles on crags.
Rocamadour is imposingMiracle-working Madonna
Rocamadour – it’s a bit steep
Even the Cité Réligieuse of Rocamadour is a cliffhanging fortified site, scaled by 216 calf-stretching steps called the ‘Grand Escalier’. Hard to credit that medieval pilgrims used to mount it on their hands and knees. Today’s funicular cut into the hillside was sorely tempting, but that rich lunch had to be worked off.
Out of season is the best time to visit the complex of seven sanctuaries, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which attracts 1.5 million visitors a year. The big draw is the miracle-working, walnut-sculpted Madonna in the Chapelle Notre Dame. Tourist emporia tat aside, the whole Rocamadour experience is spectacular, if a mite spurious. A sanctified fourth century hermit called Amadour is the alleged founder but he may well just be one of those Dark Ages figments.
The hotel’s riverside terraceMichelin chef Chambon
A rural retreat with a Michelin star
Rocamadour is not a place to seek out Michelin-starred dining. For that drive 20 minutes north west to the Pont de l’Ouysse. This quietly chic four star hotel, in the same family for five generations, is as delightful as its situation, alongside a ruined bridge (hence the name) over tributary of the Dordogne River. From my room terrace I looked on the perched castle of Belcastel (main image above) to the sound of the rippling stream.
Chef Stéphane Chambon and his brother Matthieu, front of house, worked across the globe before returning to take over this stalwart one-star establishment from their father Daniel. It is not cutting edge bells and whistles, mind. Stéphane’s focus is on extracting the maximum flavour from some seriously fine raw materials. A duck carpaccio oozing a walnut dressing sets the pattern for a beautifully balanced dinner. My only regret was that Stéphane’s celebrated Hare Royale wasn’t among the mains. Note that this establishment is open only from April to early November.
Walnut crusher CharlieAn ancient grindstone
A cracking time in Walnut Central
Both here in the river valley and further north in the Perigord Noir, around Sarlat, walnut trees dominate the landscape, as they always have. So valuable was the oil in medieval times it was used as currency, its health-giving properties have been equally treasured and in 2002 it was granted AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) status, protecting its authenticity and quality.
It’s the traditional mills, strung out along the Route de la Noix and serviced by some 40 sq km of orchards, that really benefit. We popped in on the tiny Moulin de Maneyrol, where Charlie Le Gallo presses award-winning artisanal oils after crushing with traditional grindstones.
Elsewhere, around Sarlat, the walnut products, (like the foie gras too) are manufactured on a more industrial scale. I enjoyed walnut cakes and breads but walnut wines and liqueurs weren’t really for me – even from the celebrated Distillerie Denoix in their historic Brive premises.
The Lanterns des MortsA Sarlat foie gras stall
Towering mystery of Sarlat’s Lanterne des Morts
Sarlat-la-Caneda, to give it its full title, is much more bustling than of yore. On our visit in-season asparagus and strawberries joined the inevitable walnut oil, confit, magret de canard and foie gras in all its guises on market stalls beefed up for a ‘Festival du Terroir’.
Yet stray beyond the Place de la Liberté and surrounding lanes and Sarlat still charms. Behind the Bishop’s Palace you’ll find the curious, bullet-shaped Lanterne des Morts tower, built in the 12th century. Purpose? Lost in the mists. Its lawn was a perfect spot for my baguette of torched foie gras and a local craft beer.
The centre is full of eye-catching buildings, notably the narrow French Renaissance masterpiece, the Hotel de Maleville and the gabled, mullioned Maison de la Boetie, once home to the humanist poet Etienne de la Boetie, bosom buddy of the great Michel de Montaigne. For a full view of the medieval cityscape, with its signature ‘lauze’ heavy limestone roof slabs, take the ‘Ascenseur Panoramique’ a glass-sided lift built into a church tower.
And then I fell for ‘sleeping beauty’ Collonges
All was redeemed next day at Collonges-la-Rouge, prime contender for most beautiful village in the region. Swamped in high season, obviously, but even then manages an odd bucolic serenity, its sandstone houses and remaining towers glowing rosily among meadows and orchards.
It is so beautifully preserved because its original raison d’etre, wine, was scuppered by the 1880s phylloxera vive bug epidemic and it all fell into a long sleep until the Sixties when forward-looking souls rescued it from further dilapidation.
Among those saviours was the Breuil family, who run Le Cantou in the heart of the hamlet. Camille Breuil’s parents converted the family home into an inn in 1961 just as tourism was starting to develop; she took over in 1985 and steered it towards gourmet dining. Now it’s being handed on to the next generation.
After perhaps the best foie gras starter of the trip my main of lamb sweetbreads was divine, washed down with a classic Cahors red, Chateau Pineraie, on ther vine-shaded terrace.
Spectacular La Roque-GazacFormal Marqueyssac
Relax on the river at La Roque-Gageac
La Roque-Gageac battle Collonges for loveliest village plaudit. It is very different, its ochre houses spectacularly set into a cliff on the north bank of the Dordogne. Alas, the road that separates village from river is invariably rammed with tourist traffic. Do as we did and book a lazy 55 minute trip downstream on a motorised replica of the Dordogne’s traditional ‘Gabares’ river boats. The more energetic could hire a canoe and take in the village spectacle from the opposite bank.
Actually the most stunning view is from the high belvedere ofLes Jardins de Marqueyssac a couple of miles away. Walk through a maze of 150,000 topiary boxwood trees, surrounding a rather modest 17th century chateau (its castle neighbours are all more monumental). Beyond the peacock-haunted formal gardens you’ll be rewarded with vertiginous views of La Roque-Gageac, the river and a landscape dotted with Chateaux – Fayrac, Beynac and Castelnaud (whose owners restored Marqueyssac).
The region does deal in the spectacular but it dances to a quieter beat in towns such as Terrasson-Lavilledieu with its Romanesque stone bridge across the Vézère or villages such as Curemonte with its niche drinks offerings – ‘straw’ wine and dandelion liqueur, best sipped on the ridge with a view of the picture-perfect hamlet.
No one would call Brive picturesque, but I loved walking into its well-preserved centre at breakfast time just as they were setting up the market, live chicken stall and all. The Marché Georges Brassens in the Place de de la Guierle is called as the droll Fifties chanson singer, who name-checked the town in a 1952 song, Hécatombe, about a market brawl.
Open on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays it’s a more laidback place, give or take a spot of haggling. Workaday rather than Sarlatesque touristique, it is a reminder of the splendid fresh produce the French take for granted.
If that was a clincher for traditions being upheld, our dinner destination was proof that open-minded chefs exist too to take advantage. Maybe Nicolas Eche would baulk at a ‘fusion’ tag, but the menu at his bistro En Cuisineis not afraid to add exotic spice to its market-driven raw materials and yet also here are French classics, pig’s trotters and ris de veau, delicately deconstructed versions. The wine list supports regional wines that often go under the radar in the UK. A red Pécharmant Les Hauts de Corbiac was the perfect accompaniment to both my Limousin beef carpaccio with herring eggs and a main of ‘Veau, bas carré confit et grillé legumes du moment, curry vert, royale de moelle’.
So veal ‘several ways’, seasonal veg but with bone marrow and a Thai-inspired green curry. France still rules – with a little assistance from the global marketplace, naturellement.
https://i0.wp.com/www.neilsowerby.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/12/dordogne-main-1.jpeg?fit=1400%2C500&ssl=15001400Neil Sowerbyhttps://www.neilsowerby.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/NS-typemark-v1c.pngNeil Sowerby2024-12-03 09:31:392024-12-17 11:17:33Go with the flow – a delicious Dordogne foodie journey