It’s commonplace these days to chart provenance on a menu. At Goldie one supplier name hopped off the list in front of me – Singing Frog Gardens. Alas, no sweetly croaking amphibians feature at Aishling Moore’s Cork restaurant famed for its ‘gill to fin’ sustainable fish cookery. But wasabi root grown in the West Cork backwoods does. It’s a speciality of the Gardens’ Alex Gazzaniga, a cultivator of rare and pungent salads and vegetables not traditionally native to Ireland (or many habitats in Europe, come to that). The name comes from the raucous frogs attracted to the damp forest setting suited to growing wasabi, brassica cousin to horseradish and mustard. Ironically the root thrives in a moist microclimate that can also encourage potato blight.
My Dublin-based colleague, the talented Caitríona Devery, has written two articles for Ireland Eats (wasabi andgardens) on this reclusive market gardener, who moved to Ireland from England 15 years ago and now supplies innovative indie restaurants with what greengrocers used to call ‘queer gear’. Wasabi seems a given for Takashi Miyazaki, guru behind Cork city’s Ichigo Ichie and Miyazaki. He was among Alex’s first customers; Aishling with her almost Japanese attention to fish is another perfect fit.
Wasabi growing in the wildAlex supplies the finest restaurants
No question the meal of our recent Irish road trip was at Goldie on Oliver Plunkett Street across the road from equally casual stablemate Elbow Lane. Before seafood called Aishling honed her cooking skills at this fire-led, meat-centric micro-brewhouse (which also name-checks Singing Frog among the butchers and maltsters).
Cork-born Aishling opened Goldie when she was 24, just six months before the pandemic. From the start she was determined to create a sustainable, changing menu from what was landed daily on Ballycotton quayside. Nothing of the available catch was to be wasted, in particular those fish previously thrown back into the sea. The approach is called Whole Catch, the name of the slim volume she published in 2024, the year after she was named Ireland’s Young Chef of the Year. No glossy images, just Nicky Hooper’s characterful illustrations. These include, inside front and back, the golden salmon-shaped weathervane that has crowned the hilltop St Anne’s Church, Shandon since the 1750s and gives its name to the restaurant.
Wasabi root in Ireland!The Moore bible
Whole Catch is in essence a pared back primer, charting how to handle fish from the whole raw state to the plate. The recipes are not afraid of powerful global flavours, but the freshest Irish raw materials never seem smothered. Surprises include her favouring the butterflied tails of round fish. From the small plates section we tried the hake tail schnitzel with gherkin and celeriac remoulade and soy cured egg yolk. Utter delight until it was surpassed by the chicken and butter miso sauce that perfectly partnered the firm, sweet flesh of pan-fried John Dory, an unexpected ‘luxury’ fish.
Hake tail schnitzelJohn Dory and its amazing sauce
A pudding that is approaching a similar signature dish status is the caramelised white chocolate, Achill Island sea salt, milk sorbet, with a buckwheat tuile. Proof of the sophisticated culinary intelligence at work. Pleasure principle counterpointing the sustainability crusade. Goldie’s Michelin Bib Gourmand is throughly deserved. Surely a star must be close.
Chatting afterwards, Aishling distanced herself from the application of meat butchery/charcuterie techniques as espoused by Australian chef Josh Nyland, whose own manifesto, The Whole Fish Cookbook, echoes hers. “Lots of folk make the connection, but I’d never even heard of him when we opened Goldie. Others compare us with Lir up on the north coast of Ireland, but they follow the Nyland route, making their own fish-based charcuterie. The nearest I’ve got to that is some fish jerky!”
Aishling Moore at service endUnassuming exterior
Lir chef patron Stevie McCarry made it to the final of the Great British Menu 2025. The closest Aishling has got to celebrity across the Irish Sea was a couple of appearances on Channel 4’s Sunday Brunch, the last in November, to celebrate World Fish Day. On her July debut she cooked the Shime Mackerel recipe you’ll find in Whole Catch – which I intended to replicate (the main image is Channel 4’s). It involves a 10 hour sashimi-style marinade of salt, mirin, brown rice vinegar and, crucially, dried kombu kelp (Irish and Japanese in one seasoning). Soy and wasabi to accompany. West Cork wasabi had kindly been posted to me and had to be grated quickly to guarantee its kick. Alas, I was called to a France for a week before I could source the freshest of mackerel, which this dish required. So, to avoid drying out, the surprisingly delicate wasabi was summoned to perk up some hot smoked salmon before my departure.
Marinating the fresh fishMy shime mackerel
On my return I bought a couple of Cornish mackerel; from Out of The Blue in Chorlton, Manchester, substituting horseradish from our garden for the wasabi. On Sunday Brunch beetroot ponzu and pickled ginger were the mackerel’s sidekicks. Just some plain roasted beetroot for me, but the dish was drop dead gorgeous.
A major Aishling inspiration is another Brit expat, master fish smoker and ocean activist Sally Barnes, who has been curing wild salmon and other fish at her Woodcock Smokery near Skibbereen since 1979. Aisling confirms: “Conversations with her have massively influenced the way I think and how I perceive things.” At her venue, The Keep, Sally runs artisan masterclasses and occasional dinners. As I write this the guest chef at the latest event is Nina Matsunaga of the Black Bull, Sedbergh, Cumbria, a huge favourite of mine (read my review).
Fact file
In Cork city we stayed in two hotels – The Montenotte Hotel, Middle Glanmire Road, Montenotte, Cork, T23 E9DX, Ireland. +353 21 453 0050.and The River Lee Hotel, Western Road, The Lough, Cork, T12 X2AH, Ireland. +353 21 425 2700.
Whole Catch (Blasta Books, 17 euros plus postage) is available from the Goldie website.
https://i0.wp.com/www.neilsowerby.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2025/06/Mackerel.jpg?fit=933%2C734&ssl=1734933Neil Sowerbyhttps://www.neilsowerby.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/NS-typemark-v1c.pngNeil Sowerby2025-06-01 19:52:032025-06-03 10:25:19Aishling Moore’s golden touch and the wonder of West Cork wasabi
The scene most readers remember from Graham Swift’s 1983 breakthrough novel, Waterland, is the one where the doomed 13-year-old Freddie Parr inserts an eel suggestively into Mary Metcalf’s school-regulation knickers. That was a flashback to 1940 when the water-logged Fenland setting was still teeming with Anguilla anguilla, the European eel.
Incest, madness and regret also populate this rather bleak fiction. I’m guessing that all three are less abundant these days. The same definitely goes for those wriggling denizens of the East Anglian shallows and the locals who make a living out of them.
Step forward Smith’s Smokery of Boston, stalwart purveyors of hot smoked eel these past 30 years. Smoking is the way I like my freshwater eel prepared and that’s what Terry Smith and son Chris do over beech chippings. They net some mature silver eels from the East Coast tributaries and drains that trickle into the Wash and the Humber. The rest are imported from the Netherlands, continuing a perennial trade.
Yakitori eel at ManaQuo Vadis eel sarnie
You don’t have to have Viking blood in your veins to twig the affinity with herring and eel-centric culinary traditions across the North Sea and into the Baltic. Even today’s groundbreaking Nordic cuisine pays its homage; Noma serves smoked eel in a soup dish with cider vinegar gelée, apple cubes and dill, while Manchester’s own Nordic-influenced Michelin one star, Mana, has impressed with a Yakitori eel glazed with yeast and deep, red blackcurrant vinegar.
It was a remarkable dish I ate recently in Copenhagen that led me to resume my own UK eel trail. A favourite of Noma’s Rene Redzepi, Schønnemann has been the city’s smörrebröd central since 1877. A lunch there provided me with stout-glazed smoked eel on a bed of scrambled eggs with chives on toasted rye bread. Simply perfect.
Schønnemann smörrebröd and snapsIts traditional dining room
Back home, where better to start than by purchasing 600g of freshly smoked eel fillets from Smith’s after reading Terry’s back story on their website (from which I have also lifted some atmospheric pictures)?
“Our family has always been catching something. Our great great grandad and grandad were fishermen catching shrimps, cockles, fish and eels in the summer and flight netting for ducks and geese in the winter on the Friskney mudflats in the late 1800s and early 1900s.
“But it was eels I started trapping in 1975, after catching them on rod and line during my youth. Eels are always sold live, and at that time Billingsgate market in London was the place to go. I first went to the old market near Tower Bridge which has now gone and is covered in skyscrapers and then later to the new Billingsgate Market at Canary Wharf.
“It was about 1990 that I delivered the first load of eels to Holland by small lorry. Whilst delivering to the Dutch smokehouses we were able to see first hand the techniques on how they smoked them. During this time my son Chris joined me and in 2001 we decided to use the knowledge that we had gained from the Dutch to start Smith’s Smokery. Although many of our eels still go to Holland alive we are smoking more and more as demand and awareness increase.”
Netting the wrigglersA fine haul of Fenland eels
We have to ask – is eel a sustainable fish?
There is an exhaustive, yet still fascinating, overview, to which Terry Smith contributed. Despite UK eel stocks having declined by 95 per cent in the last half century these experts remain cautious optimistic about the eel’s future both as a species and on our plate. That’s despite EU rules restricting wild eel fishing to preserve stocks.
A history of eels on our plate
It is hard to see jellied eels wriggle back into fashion. This traditional English dish is associated with East London, where it was a staple food in the 18th and 19th centuries. These pie and mash shop staples are prepared by boiling chopped eels in a spiced stock, which then cools and solidifies into a jelly. The dish is often served cold, with vinegar and white pepper as common accompaniments.
Not for want of trying but I’ve never got the taste for it. Whereas smoked eel remains on my culinary bucket list. It’s an excuse to pop into Soho’s Quo Vadis to sample Jeremy Lee’s signature starter – a smoked eel sandwich in fried sourdough bread with horseradish and mustard creams topped with red onion pickle.
Hung in the hot smokerEeels make a pretty fillet
Jeremy has stuck with his original suppliers Mr Beale’s Eels of Lincolnshire (nothing to do with Ian Beale’s Eel Shop in Eastenders!) through their metamorphosis into the Dutch Eel Co, Devon Eel Company and, finally, Meadowland Smokery.
My own long-time online supplier, Brown and Forrest have ditched eels (even though their email address remains info@smokedeel.co.uk).
To sate subsequent cravings I have enjoyed smoked eel from the likes of Upton Smokery near Burford, Pinneys of Orford and the Port of Lancaster Smokehouse. Sign of the times – the latter import fresh eel from Australia and New Zealand.
How smoked eel is prepared
Hot smoking is the route, preferably with beech wood, which is subtler than oak. Uncooked, the flesh is strongly metallic. Mature silver eels offer a firmer less fatty flesh than juveniles. Brown and Forrest method was to gut and briefly roast them before have up to three hours’ smoking over sawdust.
What to do with it at home
It’s a mite disconcerting when a whole eel drops through the letterbox, albeit vacuum packed. Yet its straightforward to fillet it from its one bone and spoon off the flesh from the skin. The leftovers make a smoky broth.
The whole eel has a four-week shelf life, it can be hung in the larder or wrapped in parchment and stored in the fridge.In fillet form it can be frozen.
Destination Sargasso Sea – an epic trek
Consult Chapter 26 of Waterland for a romantic exploration of the myths surrounding the eel and its journey back to the Caribbean, via the Azores, to breed for a single time… and die. No space here for a run down on the enduring mystery surrounding the creature. Modern tagging has confirmed the Sargasso Sea, a 2 million square mile, seaweed-strewn patch of ocean south west of Bermuda, is definitely the breeding ground for the eels. Once spawned, the larvae drift back to European waters via ocean currents. It might take two years before they turn up as fragile, transparent glass eels in familiar places like our own Fens. These adapt to fresh or brackish water, developing into elvers and eventually sexually mature yellow eels around 1m long, before they are ready to make the return journey.
• Eel plays an important role in Japanese cuisine, but that’s a story for another day. Sayonara.
https://i0.wp.com/www.neilsowerby.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/eeel-main.jpg?fit=1100%2C960&ssl=19601100Neil Sowerbyhttps://www.neilsowerby.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/NS-typemark-v1c.pngNeil Sowerby2025-05-28 15:44:202025-05-29 08:59:15Smoke me an eel to conjure up visions of brackish Fens and the wide Sargasso Sea
The salt cod milestones of my life? We’ll stick with three. Flash back to 2006 when Portugal knocked England out of the World Cup on penalties after Wayne Rooney was sent off. It prompted a notorious wink from his Manchester United team-mate Ronaldo. Not long after, at an intimate Sunday preview of a new Portuguese restaurant on Bridge Street, I was introduced to the still gauche CR7.
Neither of us was going to step over the chance to order Salt Cod Gomes Sa, served with poached egg, crushed potatoes, black olives and spring onions. The Bacalhau was as good as his mum Dolores used to make in Madeira, he told me. And Wayne was still a pal.
Classic Bacalhau à BrásA baby-faced Ronaldo at United
A decade later, at a Naples restaurant devoted to what the Italians called Baccalà, I was treated to a six course tasting menu of the stuff, culminating in a dessert that paired the salt cod with chocolate and pine-nuts. Reader, I gagged.
Of course, on markets across the Med, you’ll find those unappetising yellowy strips of dried fish caked in salt that need to be soaked before cooking. The ubiquitous treatment is what the Provencals call Brandade de Morue and the Spanish Brandada de Bacalao. It’s there (main image above) on the new spring menu at Exhibitionon Peter Street in Manchester, where the Baratxuri kitchen has smoked the potatoes for the whipped olive oil emulsion and boosted it with Basque chorizo. The fish flakes offered intense flavour that has finally won me over to salt cod’s charms.
Keen to dissociate itself from your average food hall, Exhibition is offering a single combined à la carte fusing Baratxuri with fellow fixtures Jaan by Another Hand and OSMA . It is a game to guess which dish came from which chef. Just don’t peep at the latest counter your server is arriving from.
All three operators are a destination in their own right and for OSMA it will be their sole outlet after closing their acclaimed Prestwich restaurant in search of a new city centre equivalent. Spoiler alert. Billed as Scandi-influenced, at Exhibition they puzzlingly offer tuna sashimi and panko chicken thigh tonkatsu. Now that’s what I call mix and match.
Salt cod au naturel Lisbon’s Alto Bairro
Why Bacalhau à Brás remains Ronaldo’s comfort fave
Well over two decades later, as a muscled-up veteran Ronaldo plies his trade for Saudi Pro League club Al Nassr FC, traditional salt cold remains an essential part of a rigorous high protein diet dedicated to career longevity. It may be his one (slight) self-indulgence. Indeed at the CR7 Corner Bar & Bistro Baixa inside the superstar’s Pestana CR7 Lisboa boutique hotel you can order Bacalhau à Brás. Wash it down with a ‘Ballon d’Or’ cocktail.
Brás or Braz in English alludes to its inventor, a bar owner in Lisbon’s Bairro Alto. Brás has since become a technique that can be used to cook various types of fish and even vegetables. It has an onion, garlic, and potato base that is held together by creamy scrambled eggs. The olives are optional.
Buy salted cod (or its Northern European counterpart, stockfish) at Manchester’s Arndale Market or Out of The Blue fishmongers in Chorlton. Essential before you start give it a 24 hours plus soaking. Now create your own Bacalhau à Brás.
INGREDIENTS
500g potatoes
400g salted codfish
1 large onion
2 garlic cloves
5 tbsp olive oil
1 bay leaf
5 eggs
Salt and pepper to taste
Parsley, spring onions and olives.
METHOD
Peel the onion and thinly slice. Set the oven temperature to 230°C.
Peel the potatoes and slice them into thin strips, then into sticks of equal size. Rinse the sticks thoroughly, drain, and pat dry with absorbent paper or cloth. Place them in a bowl and top them with about 3 tbsp of olive oil. Place the sticks on an oven tray sprayed with olive oil. Check that they don’t overlap. Cook until golden in batches, flipping halfway through.
Place the cod in a pan, pour boiling water and keep the heat on a high flame. Cook for around eight minutes. Drain, reserving the water in a bowl.
Heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a large frying pan and over a medium heat.Fry the onion until it becomes transparent. It should take roughly six minutes. Cook for three minutes more after adding the garlic and bay leaf.
Manually shred the cod, eliminating any bones or skin. Introduce the cod into the onion mixture, stirring occasionally and cook for 5 minutes.
Pour the eggs into a small bowl and whisk them together. Incorporate them into the fish mixture. Cook it on a low heat while continually stirring. The eggs must be cooked while remaining fluffy. Stir in the potatoes and season with black pepper and salt to taste. Garnish with the parsley, spring onions and olives.
https://i0.wp.com/www.neilsowerby.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/Extra-brandade.jpeg?fit=1000%2C860&ssl=18601000Neil Sowerbyhttps://www.neilsowerby.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/NS-typemark-v1c.pngNeil Sowerby2025-04-09 18:50:302025-04-09 18:50:37Bacalhau to the future – the time I shared salt cod with Cristiano Ronaldo
Dusk in deepest Marylebone. Surprised to see swanky Seymour Place still retains an old school hardware shop. It’s shut for the day, so no chance of an impromptu ‘four candles’ purchase. Across the street is my destination – a restaurant years in pop-up gestation, that has won a Michelin star just three months after opening. Anglo Thai’s mission statement? Thai cuisine cooked with British ingredients.
So I have to thank Devon for the Brixham crab and Exmoor caviar that combine in a signature dish that has been a constant on chef John Chantarasak’s journey here. It is as ravishing as the arty upmarket beach-shack fit-out. White crab meat in a coconut cream, topped generously with the fish eggs. To be spread over a coconut ash cracker shaped like some religious symbol. I worshipped it.
John himself is the embodiment of the hybrid. Born in Liverpool to a Thai father and English mother, he was raised in the Wye Valley. Great British Menu 2020 claimed him for Wales, six years after he returned from Bangkok to work at Som Saa in Spitalfields (founded by two Englishmen). Out of all this sprung the peripatetic Anglo-Thai pop-up with sommelier wife Desiree.
Along the way they fashioned their culinary ethos, built around modern fermentation techniques (John makes his own fish sauce from kitchen scraps) while limiting the amount of imported raw materials. Fresh galangal, lime leaves and lemongrass are still flown in, but chillies can be grown seasonally in the UK and souring agents such as lime and tamarind can be replaced by British-grown sea buckthorn, rhubarb and under ripe gooseberries. Similarly ivy pollen honey from Glastonbury can be substituted for palm sugar. I’m less sure, on the evidence of my Anglo Thai dinner, of serving our heritage grains instead of rice. I love Hon Mali, the pandan scented jasmine rice from North Eastern Thailand. Barley not so much.
Mentored by David Thompson, creator of groundbreaking Nahm
John’s Bangkok grounding combined its Cordon Bleu school and a stint at Nahm restaurant with David Thompson, the Australian Thai cuisine guru. The bright pink dust jacket of his encyclopaedic Thai Food has sat on my kitchen shelf since it was published in 2002 (the hefty, heavily illustrated slab that is Thai Street Food is consigned to the attic), the year after he opened the original Nahm restaurant inside Belgravia’s Halkin Hotel. Like Anglo-Thai, it swiftly won over Michelin, becoming the first ever Thai restaurant to be awarded a star.
We once ha d a luxury stayat the Halkin and, even if the dining room was a bit shiny Bangkok boudoir, Thompson’s fine dining interpretation of dishes from across the regions felt revelatory. A world away from the pub Thai green curries that were already traducing the tradition. I was already sourcing my own spice paste ingredients but was five years away from visiting the distant reaches of their culinary homeland.
Not all the critics were so impressed with Nahm. A splenetic Jonathan Meades wrote: “Nahm’s cooking is all legerdemain, trickery, disguise, technical flashiness for its own sake; take the extraordinary waffles or rösti-like things made with rehydrated fish – the skill is patent, but the result is boring. Nothing tastes of itself. Most of the dishes taste of chilli, which is used with coarse abandon.”
Jay Rayner was kindlier, but shared Meades’ suspicion about a Sydney-born chef being master of all things fish sauce and lemongrass. Had they never heard of Pacific Rim? Whatever, for him, the whole operation smacked of colonialism. And the food? “There were a couple of high points. But it did not redefine my understanding of Thai food. I was left with those familiar flavour memories: of sweet and sour, of nut and chilli and coriander, just as I am after any good Thai meal.”
Long Chim pops upThe legendary David Thompson
In 2012 Thompson closed the Halkin outpost two years after opening a second branch of Nahm in Bangkok. This soon earned a star and then a place in the World’s Top 50 restaurants. That’s all in the past and late last year Thompson, now in his sixties, returned to London to launch a version of his Sydney casual diner Long Chim.
It occupies the ground floor of Soho Greek/Turkish spot Hovarda. A Thai pop-up, who would have thought it? Alas, my plans to check out Long Chim during a recent London visit were stymied by the dreaded ‘closed on Monday’. Instead I went on a pilgrimage to four Thai restaurants across the capital that have reordered the way we think about the cuisine. Two hold Michelin Bib Gourmands, Anglo Thai that shiny new star.
Try Thai? Here are the four hot spots I sampled on a flying visit
Long Chim means ‘Come and Try It’, but of course I couldn’t. Kolae at Borough Market had the advantage of being open on a Monday. It is a spin-off from Som Saa, which translates as ‘bitter orange’. Kolae itself means ‘fishing boat’ but also refers to food from southern Thailand that is marinated, basted, grilled, slathered and drenched in a paste of coconut curry. That is very much its focus.
Kiln in Brewer Street, Soho gets its name from a furnace, appropriate to its take on the fire-based cooking of Northern Thailand. Two dozen walk-in covers, most on the counter by the grills, does raise a punter sweat. All part of the excitement, when you eventually bag a seat. It doesn’t match Kolae, though, for the regular whoosh of wok flames.
My third new wave Thai (open Monday evenings, there is a God) was Kiln’s stablemate, Smoking Goat, which shares the same in your face prepping and duplicates some barbecue items (the naans are all their own). It started off in Soho’s Denmark Street but now is a linchpin of the Shoreditch hipster scene, more barlike as befits a homage to Bangkok’s late night canteens (sic). I loved the fun of it.
As you may gather, Anglo Thaiis a very different beast. Not just through its slogan ‘Rooted in Thailand, Uniquely British’ but because of its casual fine dining feel, with a £110 tasting menu and serious, mainly natural, wine list in a 50 cover space conceived by Thai-American designer May Redding. Obviously at some expense to the investors, the MJMK restaurant group. Grace Dent, a fellow fan, swooned over ‘strategically placed Lampang Province ceramics’ and ‘flattering Ban Pa Ao lighting’. I was impressed by the strategically informed staff.
So what were the highlights of my new wave Thai spice crawl?
KOLAE
Start your meal in this bright 80 cover space (above) in a former railway arch with the grilled mussel skewers (£6). They have been steeped in a nutty marinade, grilled twice over a smouldering coconut, then enhanced by a squeeze of calamansi lime. As well as stone grinding their own curry pastes the team prepare fresh coconut milk every morning and this imparted a vivid freshness to my southern gati curry of tiger prawns with cumin leaf (£17). Initially gentle, both dishes left a chilli hit on the palate. Sourcing is important. Meat comes from Swaledale in Yorkshire, fish from the South Coast each morning. Veg is UK organic, their new season rice is from ethical suppliers Paddi.
KILN
I was warned my venison jungle curry was not for the faint-hearted. I handled this North Thai style challenge (£16.20) well; my neighbour at the counter was left gasping for water after the spice kick of his som tam of radish and beetroot. Always the salads. Kiln remains cheerfully uncompromising. They too source day boat fish, their Tamworth pigs (pork is a key menu element) are bred specially for them by Fred Price in Somerset, the cull yaw mutton comes from a certain Mike Chatfield. I was lucky to squeeze in at the counter on arrival. A squad of besmitten walk-ins waited their turn with supreme nose-twitching patience.
SMOKING GOAT
Cull yaw in ‘sai oua’ Northern Thai sausage form (£4.90) was one of my starters at Smoking Goat, where I mounted my latest counter stool. I also felt I had to try the sweet and smoky house special of fish sauce chilli wings (£3.90) – perfect bar food for the new West Coast IPA in my life. But what made the trek into Shoreditch memorable was a turmeric pepper BBQ gurnard (£17), the whole fleshy fish splayed out for easy access. With strips of naan and a winter radish som tam with citrus eclectically sourced from Valencia’s Todoli Foundation I constructed my own sustainable fish butties. Bliss.
ANGLO THAI
Fish was a main in Anglo Thai’s beautifully presented 10 course tasting menu. A tranche of pollock in a lake of orange curry. At all the previous Thai stop-offs I had avoided the souplike sour curries. Now was the moment of reckoning. After a Carlingford oyster dressed in fermented chilli with sea buckthorn it was the spiciest dish on the menu, mitigated by sweetheart cabbage two ways, including a cute impersonation of a stuffed banana leaf.
An intriguing substitute for satay sauce was made from sunflower seeds to accompany a grilled Jerusalem artichoke dish. Very true to project, yet Todoli citrus again, made an appearance with lemongrass and pine in a pre-dessert. Anglo-Spanish?
This was Thai food on a different level. Rather than compare it to the other three, fine in their own way, restaurants look for comparisons to the Michelin starred Indian cuisine of Chet Sharma at Bibi over in Mayfair. My recommendation: visit both for equally thrilling spice-driven food.
A country of many cuisines – read up on Thai food heritage
Chef patron Chantarasak has found time to write his own recipe book, Kin Thai, and modestly recommends David Thompson’s magnum opus. I look no further than Austin Bush’s duo of intensely researched travelogues – The Food of Northern Thailand (2018) and the The Food of Southern Thailand (2024). This American expat is based in the country, a fluent Thai speaker and a compulsive traveller, who has has contributed to Lonely Planet and rival guides to South Eastern Asia.
His latest book is a visual revelation, too. His photography skills capture the vividness of diverse dishes such as Pork Braised with Soy Sauce, Pepper and Brown Sugar; a Rice Salad with Budu Dressing; a Spicy Dip of Smoked Shrimp; and Simmered Black Sticky Rice with Taro and Jackfruit. In Southern Thailand Chinese, Malay and Muslim cuisines come together in one cultural melting pot.
https://i0.wp.com/www.neilsowerby.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2025/02/AngloThai-Brixham-Crab-Exmoor-Caviar-main-Coconut-Ash-Cracker.jpeg?fit=1500%2C1125&ssl=111251500Neil Sowerbyhttps://www.neilsowerby.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/NS-typemark-v1c.pngNeil Sowerby2025-02-24 19:25:142025-02-24 19:25:33On a rewarding London spice trail I went crackers for starry Anglo Thai
Ravioli di zucca, you should be my Proustian madeleine moment when Lina Stores expands into Manchester this spring. Fingers crossed these little pasta parcels of pumpkin and ricotta make the cut, to be served doused in butter, sage and Grana Padano.
For a while this old favourite of mine no longer seemed a fixture on the menu of the Italian icon that has swollen since my first encounter in Eighties Soho. Just as I have, thanks to a lifetime of carbs. At the last count Lina currently comprises three delis and seven restaurants across London with a further three outposts in Japan – a statement in itself.
The original family deli, where they used to bag up the ravioli for me (in sheets of greaseproof sprinkled with Parmesan) still occupies its corner site at 18 Brewer Street. Here fresh pasta continues to be made, under the perfectionist eye of consultant head chef Masha Rener, who perfected her dough skills in Umbria. The premises themselves have set the design template for the burgeoning Lina chain (the first spin-off restaurant was in nearby Greek Street). Think signature pistachio-green exterior and colourful floor to ceiling shelffuls.
Chef Masha RenerRavioli di zucca
No Manchester expansion ill omens, I hope, in the presence next door at no.16 Brewer Street of Randall & Aubin. That fellow Soho fixture opened 30 years before Lina in 1911 as London’s first French butchers, supplying Sir Winston Churchill and both the Ritz and Savoy.
In 1996, under new ownership, it reopened as a seafood-led restaurant, while retaining, even gussying up, the original Edwardian features. That incarnation is still there but R&A over-stretched themselves with an ill-starred Manchester franchise in 2016. Within a year the liquidators were called in and it was salvaged before finally limping off into the sunset. Kaji, formerly Musu, now occupies the Bridge Street site.
The other day I passed Lina Stores’ starkly functional new venue on Quay Street, its huge expanse of glass mirroring the Opera House opposite. At 150 covers, it doesn’t yell ‘just like Mama used to make’. Nor does the all-day, breakfast to cocktail ethos honed across South Ken, Marylebone, Kings Cross, Broadgate Circle et al.
Lina’s arrival in Manchester mirrors that of other reassuring mid-size brands from The Smoke – Flat Iron, Blacklock, Caravan following in the footsteps of Dishoom, Rosa’s Thai, Honest Burgers and, on a different level, the mighty Hawksmoor.
How Lina’s pumpkin ravioli were my Eighties lifeline
My own Lina loyalty was always tenuous. I’d followed the national newspapers south when they’d shut their northern offices. Just a four day week toiling in The Street of Shame but still three nights away (and too much time spent in Fleet Street watering holes) before an all too fleeting long weekend with my family in the Pennines. It couldn’t last.
Back then pasta, parmesan and pesto, let alone fresh basil, weren’t staples of the supermarket shelves, even if chemists shops were no longer the source of our olive oil. That’s where Soho came in as a place to stock up on Roman and Tuscan exotica (of the culinary variety). Lina Stores wasn’t even my deli of choice. That honour went to I Camisa & Son around the corner in Old Compton Street. Like Lina, it had changed hands but felt immutable. My life didn’t as I clutched my consignment of San Daniele Prosciutto and Parmigiano Reggiano and sprinted for Euston.
Soho retains my affection to this day and I’ve waxed nostalgic about its legacy on thissitewhile championing today’s culinary heroes – Jeremy Lee at Quo Vadis and Tomos Parry at Mountain, Oisin Rodgers’ Guinness-centric Devonshire and Noble Rot occupying what was the Gay Hussar… not forgetting the searing take on Northern Thai from the team at Kiln.
Delights of Maison BertauxCamisa provisions
Of old haunts, my sole constant is the 150-year-old Maison Bertaux in Greek Street for café au lait and croissant. Since 1988 it has been in loving English hands, two sisters steeped in its culture, so changes have been sympathetic. Compare with its one-time rival in Old Compton Street. Patisserie Valerie.
From small-scale brand building in the late Eighties it rose to nearly 200 branches nationally before plunging dramatically in the last decade with much publicised financial nightmares and wholesale closures, among them the lacklustre Deansgate, Manchester cafe.
Lina Stores has been a quite different proposition, having got into bed with White Rabbit Projects, a self-styled ‘hospitality incubator’ whose CEO is former Soho House commercial director Chris Miller. His team have obviously brokered the big investment in what was solely a family-run deli for decades. Cannily the Lina website comprehensively surveys that Little Italy legacy, celebrating both the folksy side and the start-studded patronage.
It may just be me but I love this anecdote: “In the mid-20th century, the rooms above the delicatessen were used for auditions and rehearsals for nearby theatres in the West End. Later, they were rented by John Calder, who ran his publishing business from there. Many faces visited Calder over the years, including Samuel Beckett, who often came over from Paris and stayed overnight, playing Calder’s Bechstein grand piano into the early hours.”
Camisa in the Seventies……and today’s sad shell
Soho was once packed with food stores. Confusingly there were two Camisas – I Camisa and Fratelli Camisa. All down to the brothers Ennio and Isidoro Camisa, who created the business in the 1920s. Later after wartime internment they fell out and becoming bitter commercial rivals with separate Soho stores. How very Italian, you might say. Now neither survives in tangible form. Fratelli, once of Berwick Street, went online long ago, while I Camisa, having won a stay of execution for two years after support from the Save Soho campaigners, shut for good in the autumn.
When I walked past the other day it was shuttered up and sad. Still Old Compton Street, with its strong gay community, remains a vibrant stretch. Camisa’s neighbour has recently been reborn as Poppie’s, a chippie with a retro seventies vibe. In the 1950s it was the 2is coffee bar, where the young Cliff Richard was discovered. So many Soho ghosts.
Anarchy in W1: King Bomba v Mussolini
One of Soho’s real old school delis was King Bomba (above). The quarter had been home to North Italian immigrants from the late 19th century, many fleeing political unrest. That was the certainly the case with King Bomba founder Emidio Recchioni, born near Ravenna in 1864. Originally a rail worker/activist, his anarchist beliefs led him to found a radical newspaper, swiftly suppressed. Summary executions were carried out on his comrades and Recchioni was implicated in an assassination attempt on the Prime Minister. Acquitted, he still served harsh jail terms before fleeing to London at the turn of the century.
In 1909 he opened his groundbreaking grocery – where else – in Old Compton Street. Profits from Parmesan and pasta helped fund the exiled radicals who made it their rendezvous. In 1932 a failed attempt on the life of Mussolini was linked to Recchioni after the hired assassin was tortured into a confession. This unrepentant anti-Fascist’s British passport spared him retribution. Two years later he was dead, buried in Kensal Green Cemetery; King Bomba lived on until 1971. I wonder if ravioli di zucca was on the menu?
https://i0.wp.com/www.neilsowerby.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2025/02/Lina-and-randall.jpg?fit=640%2C480&ssl=1480640Neil Sowerbyhttps://www.neilsowerby.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/NS-typemark-v1c.pngNeil Sowerby2025-02-20 10:00:552025-02-23 10:04:35A tale of two Sohos: anarchist assassins and hospitality incubators
At the end of a copacetically intimate Chef’s Table dinner deep under Manchester’s Northern Quarter our host, Caroline Martins, whispered to me that liquid nitrogen was back on her SAMPA bucket list. Which might mean the return of the psychedelic Jackson Pollock inspired dessert that wowed the crowd at the supper club she used to run at Blossom Street Social in Ancoats.
Maybe you recall this Brazilian chef’s signature splatfest on a platter that owed as much to the visual alchemy of Chicago super chef Grant Achatz as Pollock’s Abstract Expressionist peak.
Food as art with SmidgeCaroline running the Chef’s Table
Our gourmet chihuahua Captain Smidge admired it from a distance. He wasn’t allowed a taste of the basil custard and coconut yoghurt scrawled across a huge black base or the dotted cubes of coconut candy, cassava biscuit and guava/banana candy. Definitely too rich for him the centrepiece – a smashed ‘bowl of, containing passion fruit mousse, rose petals, coconut granola, meringue and marshmallow.
Not just any chocolate. This was Dormouse, crafted inside the Great Northern by the city’s artisan chocolatier par excellence, Isobel Carse, using imported Brazilian cocoa beans. Great to see it remains a constant now Caroline has shifted her operation to Calcio on Dale Street, the sports she runs with husband Tim. It comes in the shape of another edible artwork – a chocolate and guava ‘mushroom’ mimicking a fly agaric.
Pouring sloe-infused cachacaToucan water jugs and Brazilian booze
That was the dessert climax of a 12 course tasting menu, served in the basement of the bar – remarkable value at £58 a head (drinks pairing, mostly Latin American wines and spirits just £35, mixed cachaças £35, soft £25). When we first visited the new venue the former Great British Menu contestant had cornered off a section of the screen-filled bar proper; the new set-up is far less distracting.
The Chef’s Table counterThe menu for our dinner
Still, when I nipped upstairs for a ‘comfort break’ midway through I came upon a screen showing the Championship derby between Preston and my team, Blackburn Rovers. I might have been torn if the feast that was being served down the stairs was not so captivating. Eight diners at a counter, close to the kitchen action, being talked through ingredients and techniques with a vivacious passion.
In this latest manifestation of her talent Caroline, a former scientist from São Paulo, has restrained the molecular gastronomy wizardry without sacrificing the intense flavour profiles. Less showy now but her devotion to the exotic produce of her South American food heritage is, if anything, more evident.
She is keen to point out: “It is a deeply personal project, blending the rich culinary traditions of my hometown (Sampa was the city’s nickname), with incredible local ingredients and suppliers.”
Evidence the ex-dairy cow ribeye sourced from cutting edge Littlewoods butchers in Heaton Chapel, out of which she conjured a remarkable steak experience. A big shout out also for the locally traceable ‘Dan and the Bees’ raw honey, Chalkstream smoked trout and, further afield Eduardo Souza ethical foie gras from Spain’s Extremadura region. I first read about the latter in Dan Barber’s groundbreaking The Third Plate.
Key ingredients on the above menu, though, come from Brazil. I couldn’t resist requesting her to talk me through them.
Requeijão
“That’s a Brazilian-style cream cheese we make in the house by splitting whey/curd from Jersey milk using lime juice. After that, I emulsify the curd using butter. That’s a very traditional technique from in the state of Minas Gerais in Brazil. It goes well and is spreadable for bread and toast, but it also goes well with smoked fatty fish – that’s why I used it with smoked chalkstream trout.”
Cassava
“A Brazilian tuberculous vegetable. It’s very starchy and grows well in tropical countries. In Brazil we use more cassava than potatoes. I like to employ it in different forms. For the scallops I made a puree and used as a mousseline. We like to use it as a crumble for meats and fish (farofa). During summer it makes natura, chopped with mayo – like a potato salad.”
Biquinho peppersHeart of palm
Biquinho pepper
“That’s a variety of chilli pepper used in Brazil but not very common to see here in the UK. They are sweet and fruity, with very mild hot notes. I like to use them because they are mild and don’t interfere with the flavours from other ingredients. They are also easy to ferment and preserve. I get my biquinhos fresh from Brazil and ferment them in 3 per cent brine for 1 month. After that, I preserve them in sugar cane vinegar. With a smoked quail egg they made a perfect canapé.”
Heart of palm
“In Brazil we use the whole palm tree: the fruits for palm oil, the leaves to make recyclable plates/cups/forks for takeaways. We use the cores of the tree (heart-of-palm) by cooking them for hours in a pressure cooker until tender, then preserve in 3 per cent brine. I like to use heart of palm with scallops because the texture and mild sweetness reminds me of scallops.
GuavaAcai bush
Guava
“Delicious tropical fruit – I usually see white-flash guavas here in Europe. But in Brazil we only use the pink-flesh guava. That’s my favourite fruit. I grew up eating guava fresh from the trees. In Brazil we use it fresh, or we make a paste called goiabada. For your meal I used fresh pink-flesh guava as an ice cream for dessert and also goiabada on top of the Extremadura foie gras.”
Acai berry
“That’s a berry from Amazonia, rich in antioxidants. Some people say they are one of those “superfoods” hence there are so many businesses profiting from acai bowls. In Brazil they are traditionally served with fish as pastes, marinades or in sauces, etc… With the hake I served it as a caponata by marinating black olives in acai puree and then chopping it. The ‘earthy’ notes from acai complement fishes such as hake that have mild fat content.”
Brazilian green fig
“Brought to Brazil by the Portuguese when they colonised us. It’s a green fig slow cooked for hours in sugar syrup, then preserved in the same syrup. When we make it, I like to shave some cumaru (tonka bean) in the syrup to add another tasting dimension to the preparation.”
CanjicaCoalho
Canjica
“It’s a white corn, traditionally used in sweet preparations, but I’ve also been using it in savoury dishes. You had it cooked as a risotto, with lots of butter. I love the texture and the neutral flavour profile. It complements strong meats such as the wild mallard duck. I’ve been growing koji on canjica and it’s starting to taste great! I might use it as a petit four by dipping it in dark chocolate (inspired by chef Gareth Ward from Ynyshir. He does it with barley).”
Coalho
“Colaho is a popular Brazilian cheese similar to paneer in texture. Everyone barbecues it because it does not melt away under strong heat. It’s usually served with steak in barbecues, that’s why I wanted to use it with the dairy cow ribeye, mixing it with winter truffle to stuff a raviolo.
Pão de queijo
“A Brazilian cheese bread made from cassava flour, eggs, milk and cheese. In Brazil we use ‘canastra cheese’, but here in the UK I like to use mild cheddar. It’s one of the staples of Brazilian gastronomy. Each family has their own recipe. Mine comes from my grandmother Thereza. She lived in the state of Minas Gerais (where pão de queijo was invented).”
It was a wild boar that brought us together – in the shape of a glorious Barnsley chop. The dish confirmed the impressive culinary credentials of Shaun Moffat, then head chef at The Edinburgh Castle.
Hence this rhapsody: “I enjoyed one of the great meat dishes of my life upstairs at the EC – a wild boar Barnsley chop. Proper beef dripping chips and mixed kale on the side and a big puddle of Shaun’s sauce, concocted from a stock from duck carcass and pig trotters, mirepoix and herbs, then reduced and infused with pepper dulse, lemon thyme and a snifter of Julian Temperley’s Somerset Cider brandy (we enjoyed a shot later with our post-prandial madeleines).”
Such prowess earned the Ancoats hostelry a swift entry into the Top 50 Gastropubs and Shaun Chef of the Year at the 2023 Manchester Food and Drink Awards. As a senior judge I had a say in the latter.
Shaun also oversaw stablemate The Lamb of Tartary. When that shut last year he jumped ship for glitzy Manchester newcomers Maya. Small world: its chef Gabe Lea swapped to the Castle, where tenures have been as brief as Watford football managers’. Shaun’s talented predecessors included Iain Thomas (The Pearl) and Julian Pizer (Another Hand) were both Best Chef contenders at the recent MFDF Awards. I understand Gabe may be moving on, too.
An ebullient Shaun celebrates winning Manchester Chef of the Year
A Winsome welcome for the wild boar whizz
Against this rollercoaster backdrop it’s great to seeShaun reemerging as Chef Patron of an exciting new Manchester city centre restaurant opening this spring. It’s called Winsome (maybe not a name for your pet wild boar but hey) and promises ‘Northern hospitality at its heart… British cooking in the kitchen, Old World wines on the shelves, passion, care and detail in delivery.”
You’ll find Winsome on Princess Street (adjoining the Whitworth Locke Hotel) it sounds a perfect fit for the Moffat magic in the way that Maya wasn’t. The dream is to replicate the quality of previous stand-outs on his cv – the London likes of St Leonards, John Salt Hix (all now shut), Berber & Q and the marvellous Manteca.
The next step, Winsome, will provide him with a team geared for similar excellence.
Shaun flanked by and Tom Fastiggi and Owain Willliams
The drinks programme is in the expert hands of Tom Fastiggi, previously of Schofield’s Bar and extends into Whitworth Locke’s Atrium hotel bar, which excites Fastiggi: “The Atrium space truly gives a unique feel to this bar. It’s a great new addition to Manchester’s hospitality scene.”
Completing the team will be Owain Williams; founder of Belzan in Liverpool, Madre and Manchester’s Medlock Canteen.
https://i0.wp.com/www.neilsowerby.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2025/02/New-SHAUN-scaled.jpg?fit=2048%2C1365&ssl=113652048Neil Sowerbyhttps://www.neilsowerby.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/NS-typemark-v1c.pngNeil Sowerby2025-02-07 15:26:452025-02-07 15:29:08Winsome restaurant looks a perfect showcase for top chef Shaun Moffat
A Pondicherry fish curry in a French bistro, basmati rice from remote Piemonte flatlands and a raft of six pale ales each made from different Kiwi hops – all part of a delicious dash for freedom from the crush of Saturday afternoon Borough Market.
OK, I should have known better with a few daylight hours to spare in London. A wonderful Waiting for Godot with Ben Whishaw and Medieval Women: In Their Own Words at The British Library had quenched my cultural cravings. Now for quality time with gourmandise.
Camille’s modest frontageIts merry team looked after me
On my last capital visit I’d found much to admire at Camille at 2-3 Stoney Street opposite the food mecca, so Gallic symmetry demanded I check out Café François further along at 14-16 (restraining my urge for my habitual pint of Harvey’s Sussex Best in The Market Porter at no.9). The pub was heaving anyway, like the inside of the Market, which I had made the mistake of trying to traverse untrampled.
Overtourism is a buzz word of the moment, but who would wish to revert to earlier times at Borough Market? Maybe not the 12th century beginnings on this site when bartering turnips for gruel was trade. No, before 1998, when the old fruit and veg market was on its knees, undermined by the power of the supermarkets. Then the decision was made to switch upmarket into a bazaar of artisan foodstuffs to tantalise the tastebuds of the chattering classes. A plan that has worked so brilliantly that it is wise to choose your moment to duck the tourist hordes. The prices, though, remain on the ambitious side, even if you roll up on a Tuesday morning. Weekends are just mayhem as the queues for average ‘street food’ stretch as long as, well, a street.
A parade of fine new restaurants is a reason to brave the Borough overload
In contrast, a big plus at Borough in recent times has been the arrival of proper restaurants on the edge of the market. Also on Stoney Street, stripped back Sri Lankan diner Rambutan, which I eagerly anticipated and then enjoyed immensely.
The most hyped recent arrivals have been Akara, https://www.akaralondon.co.uk/ a West African cuisine sibling of Michelin-starred Akoya in Fitzrovia and Oma, https://www.oma.london/ a high end Greek place from Smokestak and Manteca founder David Carter.
Café François is in a prime position It’s an all-day operation
A theme here is: big acclaim elsewhere, let’s bite on Borough. Hence Café François, which has sprung from the fancy success of Maison François near Fortnum and Mason. This more casual spin-off is also styled as an all-day Gallic-inspired brasserie and the simple, classic plates sport the joint’s name. More casual it may be but the designers have been given free rein to transform this former Paul Smith store. Stylewise it’s head and padded shoulders above anywhere else in the foodie ‘hood.
Further good news? It’s also fun with exceptional service despite it being flavour of the moment. A well thought out French flavour. Well so is Cafe Rouge. Except the François food is light years better. It’s never going to be Bouchon Racine but it’s not aiming for that crowd (well mine and Jay Rayner’s crowd). Henry Harris’s determinedly old school French bistro above a pub in Farringdon would never run to a glass-fronted dessert kiosk stuffed with patisserie and Paris-Brests. Open from breakfast, Café François is still going strong for mid-afternoon sugar rushes.
My tartare was the real dealThe vadouvant was une vrai surprise
Arriving around then I perversely ordered a curry. So should they rename it Café Indienne? Don’t forget there is a very French foothold in the Sub-continent, around Pondicherry. Hence the Vadouvan as their contribution to Indian cuisine – featuring a smoky spice mix and plenty of garlic and shallots. Quite mild this £24 bistro version with plentiful monkfish and a scattering that made an orangey mess as I prised them from the rice.
More colonial influence the presence of a soft shell crab bánh mì on the menu; the Vietnamese love (and supply most of France’s) frog’s legs but the crispy cuisses de grenouille are served with a trad sauce ravigote.
Eclectic touches aside there is a solid bistro/bouchon feel to the menu. A starter portion of exemplary if mustardy tartare du boeuf cost me £18. I drank one of my favourite rosés, Domaine de Triennes from Aix-en-Provence.
Enjoyable but my beating Borough Heart belongs to Camille. It’s a promenade de cinq minutes from La Gare de London Bridge; turn into Stoney Street, veer immediately left and you are in some modest estaminet on the Left Bank back in the Fifties. In truth it’s a plain room, untouched by any cute designer’s hand.
Ignore the melee outside and tuck into escargots, crispy pig’s ear, frisée and apple, and smoked eel devilled eggs, as I did, before Highland Angus tartare with chestnuts and topped with a fluffy cloud of grated Lincolnshire Poacher. A tie on the tartare with its rival down the street.
Chef Elliot Hashtroudi, once of St John, is on top of his Gallic game. As dusk dropped and candles were lit I started humming La Vie en Rose. But that was a while back. On this November Saturday it was time to make my escape from Borough Market. One Underground stop away is Battersea. Present Oyster Card.
Kernel has a remarkable beer offeringCloudwater’s Beer Mile outpost
Hardly the New Frontier but Bermondsey has a pioneering buzz
I had two reasons to go to Bermondsey – the Kernel Brewery Taproom and the Ham & Cheese Co, neither or which I’d made it to previously. Indeed the Taproom is a smart newcomer, opened only in August. Not every venue in this end of town is now confined to an arch.
Ham & Cheese is. It does what it says on the label imports the finest charcuterie and cheese from Italy. Plus olives, oil, pulses, rice, capers and much, much more, all sourced directly from producers that genuinely qualify as ‘artisan’. I discovered it through the charcuterie for platters they supplied to Coin in Hebden Bridge down the Valley from us. Regular online orders proved a lifeline throughout the lockdowns. My only caveat you could only buy my favourite Mortadella whole – 2.3kg for £65. They recommend eating it with three days, too and there was a further obstacle – I don’t own a commercial slicer.
Gioia! On the counter at their base in Dockley Industrial Estate there sat a hunk of mortadella to be sold by the 100g and cut wafer thin. Is per favore.
Those mighty mortadellasFrom pigs that roam free
Their source in the Bologna Apennines, Aldo Zivieri, keeps his rare breed Mora Romagnola pigs or free range large whites in 40 hectares of pristine woodland and slaughters them at 14-16 months in his own small abattoir before applying traditional charcutier’s skills.
My prime mission was accomplished too. The new season’s extra virgin olive oil had arrived only five days before from the Abruzzo. It is made from a tough little olive called intosso, which only yields fruit above an altitude of 350m. A labour of love indeed. It has only survived as a varietal thanks to pressure from the Slow Food Movement. When I got home and opened the bottle of Casino di Caprafico the colourswas vibrantly, verdantly green with a huge, grassy perfume. At £42 for 75cl it’s a luxury to be sprinkled sparingly, but when even commercially produced olive oils are soaring price my advice is bugger £10 Berio.
I went for Abruzzo oil and came away with Piemonte basmati
A final surprise package, literally, was – alongside the customary Carnaroli rice for risotto – was Riso Gange with its remarkable back story. Let me quote the Ham & Cheese Co notes on this aromatic basmati style long grain rice also grown in Piemonte by Igiea Adami…
“In 1821 Igiea’s distant relative, Paolo Solaroli, was exiled to India for his revolutionary ideas. There he made his fortune, married an Indian princess, returned to Piedmont in 1867 and bought the tiny hamlet of Beni di Busonengo to grow rice. It is in an area of wild flatlands called the Baraggia, now a nature reserve, where poor, clay soil fed with cold waters channeled straight off the Monte Rosa massif in the Alps provides the perfect growing conditions for rice.”
And it was suitable for the ‘Riso Gange’. Each pack that Igiea sells she donates money to the Indian charity Samparc in Calcutta. Just before I wrote this piece I used it to make a kedgeree and it worked a dream.
The Ham & Cheese store only opens for a few hours every Saturday; the nearby Kernel Brewery Taproom closes Monday and Tuesday but is open up to 10 hours a day the rest of the week.
At least until the end of 2024 Kernel is hosting a kitchen residency with Yagi Izakaya, serving Japanese-inspired comfort food such as gyoza, udon and karaage. It would be intriguing to see how such dishes match with Kernel’s classic dark beers. I couldn’t resist sampling the 7.1 per cent Export Stout 1890 but balked at the 9.5 per cent Imperial Russian Stour, cleansing my palate with one of six individually hopped NZ pale ales. I took my server’s advice and went for the Rakau. It was a resinous treat. Does Kernel ever brew a dull beer? It has been 16 years since Evin O’Riordan started brewing at his original Druid Street site and it remains the benchmark for all the other breweries along the ‘Bermondsey Beer Mile’. Many were lined up in the Enid Street arches (including the London outpost of Manchester’s own Cloudwater) as I walked back to Borough Market, hoping in vain the hordes might have dispersed.
Some special treats to add to your Bermondsey basket
My tip: stop off at the Maltby Street Market on the Ropewalk for your street food, having stocked up at some of the classy food outlets clustered around Ham & Cheese and Kernel on the Dockley Road Industrial Estate. Most of therm do online retail. I liked the look of The Fresh Fish Shop at Unit 8, foraged mushroom and truffle specialists The Wild Roomat Unit 3.
In the adjacent Apollo Business Park I recommend Maltby and Greek at Arch 17, a real Hellenic Aladdin’s Cave (sic) from the UK’s leading importer of Greek foods with an impressive wine selection, too, and at Arches 1-11 the cheesy cornucopia that is Neal’s Yard Dairy. Less hectic than the Borough branch, naturally. I rest my case.
FACT FILE
I stayed at the Z Hotel Covent Garden, 31-33 Bedford St, London WC2E 9ED, a delightful bolthole which backs on to St Paul’s Church and overlooks Covent Garden Piazza. It’s a haven of quiet despite being in the heart of the tourist action (you’ve gathered I don’t like crowds). There’s so much to do in this area of great restaurants and theatres, including the Royal Opera House. For my Borough Market/Bermondsey break-out I caught the Jubilee Line at Westminster.
https://i0.wp.com/www.neilsowerby.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/boorugh.jpg?fit=640%2C480&ssl=1480640Neil Sowerbyhttps://www.neilsowerby.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/NS-typemark-v1c.pngNeil Sowerby2025-01-29 14:25:592025-02-14 17:50:24How I grew to love the Bermondsey bounty at Borough’s expense
A starry newcomer and a revitalising pioneer of the region’s food culture were the big winners at the 2024 Manchester Food and Drink Awards. Tom Barnes, once a linchpin of Michelin 3-star L’Enclume in Cumbria, won Best Chef and Best Newcomer for Skof after just six months in the city, while Sam Buckley’s Stockport flagship WhereThe Light Gets In was named Restaurant of the Year for the second time in three years. Sam also took the Outstanding Achievement Award for eight years of innovation, championing sustainability and helping put Stockport on the culinary map.
And, of course, the 18 categories up for grabs in front of 350 hospitality professionals at the New Century Hall, weren’t all about big hitters. The presence of ‘Affordable Eats’ and ‘Best Takeaway’ offered their own statement on the strength of the local scene in the face of continuing pressures on the industry. On the day of the Awards the Almost Famous burger chain went under.
The 135 contenders in the MFDF Awards were selected by a panel of judges made up of leading food and drink experts, writers and critics. Shortlisted venues were put to the public vote via the MFDF website where thousands of food and drink fans voted for their favourite winner. Scores from a mystery shopping visit, carried out by members of the judging panel, were also combined with the public vote for some of the awards to determine the winners. Here is this year’s awards list in full (for addresses visit this link:)…
Where The Light Gets InIts creator Sam Buckley
Restaurant of the Year – Where The Light Gets In
Shortlisted: Skof, Higher Ground, Another Hand, The Pearl, Restaurant Örme, Mana, Adam Reid At The French , Where the Light Gets In.
Chef of the Year – Tom Barnes (Skof)
Shortlisted: Iain Thomas (The Pearl), Joe Otway (Higher Ground), Sam Grainger (Medlock Canteen), Patrick Withington (Erst), Danielle Heron (OSMA), Sam Buckley (Where The Light Gets In), Julian Pizer (Another Hand) , Tom Barnes (Skof).
Newcomer of the Year – Skof
Shortlisted: The Pearl, Medlock Canteen, Onda Pasta Bar, Tawny Stores, Caravan, Hakkapo , Flat Iron, Skof.
Shortlisted: Monton, Salford, Urmston, Levenshulme, Altrincham, Denton, Sale, Prestwich.
Great North Pie rosterThe big pour at Cloudwater
Independent Drinks Producer of the Year – Cloudwater Brewing Co
Shortlisted: Pomona Island Brew Co, Sureshot Brewing , The Salford Rum Company, Steep Soda Co, Pod Pea Vodka, Hip Pop , Balance Brewing & Blending, Cloudwater Brew Co.
Independent Food Producer of the Year – Great North Pie Co
Shortlisted: Companio Bakery, H.M.Pasties, La Chouquette, The Flat Baker, Long Boi’s Bakehouse, Yellowhammer, Half Dozen Other, Great North Pie Co.
Another Heart To FeedPizza kings Honest Crust
Coffee Shop of the Year – Another Heart To Feed
Shortlisted: Grind & Tamp, Fort Coffee, Allpress Espresso, California Coffee & Wine, Bold Street Coffee, ManCoCo, Oscillate Coffee, Another Heart to Feed.
Food Trader of the Year – Honest Crust
Shortlisted: House of Habesha, The Little Sri Lankan, Cardinal Rule, Ad Maoira, Jaan By Another Hand , Baity, House of Bun, Honest Crust.
Pop up or Project of the Year – Love From
Shortlisted: Bungalow at Kampus, Tartuffe, The Landing, Root to Flower, Sampa, Manchester Wine Tour, Midori Didsbury at Wine & Wallop, Love From.
Nell’s Pizza abundanceMaray go plant-based
Affordable Eats Venue of the Year – Nell’s Pizza
Shortlisted: Café San Juan, Wow Banh Mi, Hong Thai, Salt & Pepper, Nila’s Burmese Kitchen, Mia’s Arepas, Sips & Dips, Nell’s Pizza.
Shortlisted: Ad Hoc Wines, Out of the Blue Fishmongers, Littlewoods Butchers, Wandering Palate, New Market Dairy, Petit Paris Deli, La Chouquette.
Mulligans is Guinness centralBar classics at Hawksmoor
Pub or Beer Bar of the Year – Mulligans
Shortlisted: Heaton Hops, Port Street Beer House, North Westward Ho, The City Arms, The Britons Protection , The Old Abbey Taphouse, Café Beermoth, Mulligans.
Bar of the Year – Hawksmoor
Shortlisted: Red Light, Flawd Wine, Speak In Code, Project Halcyon, 10 Tib Lane, Stray, Sterling Bar, Hawksmoor.
A touch of Spain at San JuanSchofield’s offers great service
Neighbourhood Venue of the Year – Bar San Juan
Shortlisted: Restaurant Örme, OSMA, Ornella’s Kitchen, The Oystercatcher, Yellowhammer, Fold Bistro & Bottle Shop, The Jane Eyre Chorlton, Stretford Canteen.
Great Service Award – Schofield’s Bar
Shortlisted: Flawd Wine, The Pearl, Higher Ground, Skof, 10 Tib Lane, Adam Reid At The French, Ornella’s Kitchen, Schofield’s Bar.
The Howard and Ruth Award for Outstanding Achievement – Sam Buckley
Recognising people who have contributed something outstanding to the hospitality industry in Greater Manchester.
https://i0.wp.com/www.neilsowerby.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/main-matt.jpg?fit=640%2C480&ssl=1480640Neil Sowerbyhttps://www.neilsowerby.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/NS-typemark-v1c.pngNeil Sowerby2025-01-28 07:47:572025-01-28 09:30:37All the winners from The MFDF Awards 2024 on a night of New Century celebration
I make no apology for kicking off my books of 2024 round-up with the reissue of a foodie classic first published in 1950 – a time when we weren’t deluged with cookbooks from every corner of the globe and olive oil and garlic weren’t a staple of our national diet. Alongside it a history of that same English food, whose riches have rarely been given their just recognition…
A Book of Mediterranean Food by Elizabeth David (Grub Street, £14.99 reissue) and The English Table by Jill Norman (Reaktion, £17.95)
For nigh on 30 years my most cherished foodie keepsake was a browning programme from Elizabeth David’s memorial service on September 10, 1992. The great and the good of the food world were in attendance inside St Martin-in-the-Fields. Plus me taking a break from the very different world of Robert Maxwell’s Daily Mirror to honour the great cookery writer, credited with introducing grey Post-War Britain to the sun-dowsed delights of Mediterranean and French cuisine.
Still today a standard-bearer for her values, Jeremy Lee was also in attendance, as a young chef. When he came up to Manchester to guest at Bistrotheque in Ducie Street Warehouse the dinner’s theme? Why, Elizabeth David as Muse! Alas, I took that precious memento to show Jeremy and somewhere on the way home I mislaid it.
A hardback version of her debut, A Book of Mediterranean Food, has not been available for decades (my dog-eared Penguin paperback is from 1975), but facsimile specialists Grub Street have remedied that and, with its original John Minton illustrations, this reissue would make a lovely Christmas present for a new generation.
Just a little taster from it, on Greek meze: “Your feet almost in the Aegean as you drink your ouzou; boys with baskets of little clams or kidonia (sea quince) pass up and down the beach and open them for you at your table; or the waiter will bring you large trays of olives, dishes of atherinous (tiny fried fish like our whitebait), small pieces of grilled octopus…”
Remember this was a pre-package holiday era when such travel was generally the preserve of an elite. She feels the need to explain meze as similar to hors d’oeuvre.
At that distant memorial service, Jill Norman, editor of both Ms David and Jane Grigson, gave an oration. She quoted from the author’s anthology, An Omelette and a Glass of Wine: “Came 1846 the year that Mr Alfred Bird brought forth custard powder, and Mr Bird’s brainchild grew and grew until all the land was covered with custard made with custard powder, and the trifle had become custard’s favourite resting place.”
Jill Norman’s new bookElizabeth David – legend
It is proof that in her later years Elizabeth David (wryly) researched our own native food culture and Jill Norman has followed in her footsteps with some distinction. The English Table is her own contribution to British food history. It’s a crowded field, mind, going back to the days of Dorothy Hartley and Florence White and, more recently, Pen Vogler and Diane Purkiss… plus Manchester-based Dr Neil Buttery, who conducted a fascinating recent interview with Jill on his British Food History podcast.
Now 84, she has taken on a big task to compress a couple of millennia’s worth of food-related social history into some 250 pages. She is ferociously well-read but recognises that in earlier times printed recipes were rarely representative of what most folk ate. In her final chapter she briefly addresses contemporary issues of ultra-processed foods and the need for biodiversity (insect-based anyone?).
A swell of local pride for me when she promotes Incredible Edible, the hands-on community growing movement that started in my home town of Todmorden 15 years ago. Back to basics is a good mantra to have.
‘Diana Henry’s debut’ reissuedA vintage taste of the sun
Crazy Water, Pickled Lemons by Diana Henry (Octopus, £26) and Dinner by Meera Sodha (Penguin Fig Tree, £27) xx
Another welcome reissue, this time from the 21st century. Diana Henry lacks the high profile of a Nigella or a Jamie but through nine books and a her Daily Telegraph column has been quietly influential. Crazy Water was her 2002 debut, where she acknowledges the influence of Claudia Roden (another Jill Norman signing) in her own incursions into Middle Eastern and Mediterranean flavours. She is rightly fascinated by evocative names; ‘crazy water’ is an Italian dish of sea bass poached in a salty, garlicky broth by the fishermen of the Amalfi coast. Pungent flavours in the recipes are matched by the piquancy of her traveller’s tales. Ms David would surely have approved.
Meera Sodha’s secret maladyAnd the book that came out of it
Meerha Sodha is familiar from her own weekly column in The Guardian’s Food supplement – the New Vegan. Her first two award-winning books sprang from her family’s diaspora – they fled from Uganda to less exotic Lincolnshire, where she was born and learned to cook Indian at her mother’s side.
The award-winning Mother India and Fresh India are among the most thumbed through, stained volumes on my kitchen shelves, The fourth, Dinner, continues the plant-based trajectory of follow-up East, offering 120 user-friendly recipes celebrating ‘the most important meal of the day”. That gives a clue to the once hidden, personal calamity at the book’s heart. To quote her chilling Dinner introduction: “A couple of years ago, I lost my love for food. I didn’t want to shop. I didn’t want to cook. I ate for necessity, not pleasure.”
Well, all of us food obsessives have had these days? No, this was true depression,, a can’t het out of bed breakdown – payback time for her over-zealous rise as a food writer. Heart-warming is the way she fought back finally when, realising her husband was himself cracking up after supporting her, she cooked a dinner that brought the family together. This book is a record of how each evening she rediscovered cooking for pleasure. The pleasure is now ours. This is genuine comfort food to batten down the hatches with against a hostile, demanding world.
An inspired Thai follow-upThe much-travelled Austin Bush
The Food of Southern Thailand by Austin Bush (Norton, £35) andThe Book of Pintxos by Marti Buckley (Artisan, £30)
Two very different writers who have settled in a distant country and charted its cuisine in minute but vital detail. Both happen to be American – Bush from Oregon, Buckley from Alabama. Bush has contributed hyperactively to Lonely Planet and rival guides to South Eastern Asia, but until this year his magnum opus was The Food of Northern Thailand (2018). Based in that country and a fluent Thai speaker, he has now followed it up with The Food of Southern Thailand, spotlighting a cuisine more familiar to Western holidaymakers on the surface, but Bush’s expeditions carry him far beyond Phuket resorts’ green curries ands pad thais. It is a visual revelation, too. His photography skills capture the vividness of diverse dishes such as Pork Braised with Soy Sauce, Pepper and Brown Sugar; a Rice Salad with Budu Dressing; a Spicy Dip of Smoked Shrimp; and Simmered Black Sticky Rice with Taro and Jackfruit. Chinese, Malay and Muslim cuisines come together in one cultural melting pot.
Marti BuckleyHer definitive pintxos guide
Marti Buckley has been based in Donastia (local name for San Sebastián) for over a decade and I used her debut food volume, Basque Country as a guidebook on a walking tour of that gastronomically rich region. Pintxos dives even deeper via the Basques’ small plate answer to tapas. Rich social history sits on the counter alongside some alluring recipes; I’m taking this one with me on my next trip. Not that I’ll be ordering my pdet phobia, Russian salad. Sorry, Marti.
Loch Fyne and its ruined castle
Between Two Waters by Pam Brunton (Canongate, £20) and Ultra-processed People by Chris van Tulleken Penguin, £10.99pb)
The main image for this article is the view across Loch Fyne from Inver to the ruins of Old Castle Lachlan. It’s lifted from this unique restaurant’s Facebook page. It’s always difficult to illustrate a book review article beyond a parade of covers. On the Inver site alongside a delectable food shot I was struck by this quote from chef patron Pam Brunton:
“The fish and the artichokes grew up a few miles from the restaurant. The sauce –made from the smoked bones of the fish and seaweed from nearby waters – is spiked with exotica from landscapes further away: verbena berries and fragrant bergamot juice, lifting the mellow autumnal umami. The crispy artichoke skins rustle like leaves in cold sunshine. Hardly post anything about food anymore – every time I come on here I’m consumed myself by thoughts of war and political collapse.”
Can’t imagine Nigella Lawson coming out with that, but then she would never have published Between Two Waters. It’s both a memoir of how Pam and her partner created their remote restaurant a decade ago, challenging punters’ expectations and not compromising on their ideals, and a rallying cry, tirade in parts, against how ‘Big Food’ has damaged the way we farm and cook and eat, severed our connection with nature.
A former philosophy student, she name-checks Descartes and Locke along the way as she lays into salmon farming, the grouse shooting industry and much, much more. She’s proud about buying organic and local, and Inver’s Michelin Green Star for prioritising sustainability. Sounds preachy? No it’s one of the most timely and important food books of recent years, tender and down to earth to when she explores her family roots in Dundee, rhapsodical about the staples of Scottish peasant cuisine. Just don’t get her started on the Highland Clearances.
Medic turned author Chris van Tulleken (above) took his crusade against ultra-processed foods and the damage they do onto BBC 2 the other night.
“This was explained to me by a scientist who works in the food industry,” reported Van Tulleken. “I said ‘but if I’m making a chocolate brownie at home, surely it is basically the same as one I buy in the shop?’ And he explained there are two really important differences. Firstly, the shop-bought one will use much more fat, salt and sugar.”
“The second difference is the shop-bought one will use additives which we don’t at home – these are ingredients that aren’t available to us – different fats and sweeteners, emulsifiers, stabilisers, colourings and flavourings.”
Such products are geared to engaging your appetites commercially, while neglecting your health. Not that the the oafish Rod Little, reviewing it in The Sunday Times, was convinced. Conspiracy theories he hinted at. The food industry is obviously keen to downplay what academic research compiled by Dr Chris has indicated. It scared the life out of me. Just buy the book and you may be too.
Jill Norman’s n
One Thousand Vines: A New Way to Understand Wine by Pascaline Lepeltier (Mitchell Beazley, £45) and Perry: A Drinker’s Guide by Adam Wells (CAMRA, £17.99pb)
I first encountered Pascaline Lepeltier when she wrote a foreword for (and contributed greatly to) Alice Feiring’s groundbreakingThe Dirty Guide to Wine in 2017, the ultimate terroiriste manifesto. Now Anjou-born, Chenin championing master sommelier Pascal has produced her own erudite overview, challenging pre-conceived ideas. US-based Pascaline also had a background in philosophy and her book ranges across botany, ecology, geology, how perception works in judging wines, the language of wine. It’s a unique work of synthesis, but never dry. Or should that be sec?
Earlier in the year I had the pleasure of interviewing Adam Wells about apple cider’s often neglected country cousin. The mission of Perry is to change all that. I described it as “a hugely evocative beacon of hope that manages to be more celebration than elegy. It’s a wonderful, revelatory read.” It has also added to my drinks bill as I’ve striven to fill the gaps in my knowledge. A trip to the orchards of Herefordshire was particularly fruitful. Do read about my adventures and check out the thoughts of Adam. Last word with him: “Great perry takes consummate care and attention. Which is all the more reason to celebrate the remarkable fact that it even exists.”
The Brandenburg GateBorder guards on the alert
Vertigo by Harald Jähner (WH Allen, £25) and Borderlines by Lewis Bastion (Hodder Press, £25)
The history of 20th century Europe continues to fascinate me. Aftermath was Harald Jähner’s eye-opening account of ‘Life in the Fall-out from the Second World War’, where he retraced a decade of ruins and restoration in his native Germany. More ambitiously, with Vertigo, he tackles the rise and fall of the Weimar Republic between the debacle of the Great War and the rise of Hitler. It’s more than just Cabaret decadence; a wealth of research reveals a society rich in innovation but wracked by internecine strife. The redrawing of borders after 1918 contributed to major tensions across Europe. In his quirky but sobering travelogue fellow political historian Lewis Bastion journeys to 29 key European borders to question what national/racial identity is all about it. Historical, it couldn’t feel more topical.
The Heart in Winter by Kevin Barry (Canongate, £16.99) and Tell Me Everything by Elizabeth Strout (Viking £16.99)
Colm Tóibín now ranks among the Irish literary greats and Long Island, his sequel to Brooklyn, was ‘eagerly anticipated’ in this household, but disappointed us both. Neither of us either can see what the fuss is about Sally Rooney, so Intermezzo was never likely to make my stocking. Step forward Sligo’s ever-surprising Kevin Barry and his wild western tale of lovers on the run in 1890s Montana. Opium-raddled wastrel Tom Rourke and mail order bride with a past Polly Gillespie high-tail it out of a mining town with a saddle pack full of dollars and a price on their head. Plot and language are as leftfield lyrical and inventive as ever. I love the pure Barry blarney of “Tom Rourke salted the eggs unambiguously”.
Since her 1998 debut novel Amy and Isabelle Elizabeth Strout has ploughed a very different literary furrow exploring the separate but eventually interlinking lives of two protagonists, Olive Kitteridge and Lucy Barton, one a cantankerous schoolmarm, the other a New York based writer, scarred by a poverty-stricken childhood in Illinois. Their parallel lives, and all involved with them, interlock finally in small town Maine. Strout mines a rare richness out of theconnections. Classic.
https://i0.wp.com/www.neilsowerby.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/12/fish-market.jpeg?fit=800%2C600&ssl=1600800Neil Sowerbyhttps://www.neilsowerby.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/NS-typemark-v1c.pngNeil Sowerby2024-12-09 21:33:102024-12-10 07:55:24Random reads – my recommended books of 2024 (and a reminiscence)